Xeriscaping

Xeriscape dry landscape

Xeriscaping or Smart Landscaping is the movement to minimize the need for irrigation in the regions where fresh water or excessive water is not accessible. Many temperate, tropical, and sub-tropical plants have very low water requirements, ideal for xeriscaping. This environmentally friendly gardening method is gaining importance in other regions where fresh water is available, but access to fresh water is becoming limited.

The Principles of Xeriscaping:

The principles of xeriscaping are to conserve water and plant waste, promote biodiversity, and decrease reliance on fertilizers and pesticides. 

Map Out your Landscape Essentials: 

Choosing the proper plant for the environment is the most important aspect of your xeriscaping plan. You should create an overall base plan, laying out the micro-climates in your yard and their soil and sun exposures. Once you have the base map of your yard or planting area, you can get more specific and layout stylized planting concepts for each location. While it will be tempting to specify some plants that may not be ideal for the climate to add diversity or color at a particular time of the year, don’t be tempted into this shortcut. Always plan your plants to match the environment you are planting them in. This will minimize the amount of input from us in the form of water or chemicals. Try to choose the most environmentally friendly and broad-leaved plants to contribute maximum oxygen production and pollutant removal. (Mandă & Salahoru, 2018)

Soil Improvement:

It is advisable for both native and non-native plants to amend the soil with compost and or manure. One to two inches of manure/compost mixed well in the upper six inches of the soil will improve the fertility of the soil and give the new plants a good start. It will also increase the soil’s water-holding capacity and cation exchange capacity. It is not necessary to only grow native plants; well-suited non-native plants can also be used to help promote biodiversity.

Systematic Irrigation:

It is always best to plant so that your property doesn’t require any irrigation. This is, without a doubt, the goal to strive for. But, if you do need to irrigate and you just can’t break away from the need to have some specific plants that will not otherwise grow, do so sparingly to limit the amount of water used. Drip and soaker irrigation are a much more conservative approach than broadcast sprinklers that blast water into the air just to have it evaporate.

Key Irrigation Ideas:

  • Deep and intermittent watering only when absolutely necessary will promote stronger, deeper root systems that are more drought tolerant.
  • Irrigate after sundown to avoid water loss through evaporation.
  • Don’t plant turf grass if it will need to be watered more than a few times a season. If you need to water more than that, choose a different plant.

Plant Zones Grouping:

Grouping together the plants having similar light, moisture, and soil requirements is always wise. For example, shade-loving, low-growing shrubs should be placed in the shade of trees and far from the hoses, while the bright light and heavy irrigation demanding plants can be planted in the open sun near the hoses. 

A Xeriscape with flowering annuals in beds, trees in the corners, shrubs along the boundary, and limited turf along the walkways will give the impression of an organized, attractive, ecologically sound landscape. This design filled with well chosen plants for our climate will result in a fabulous, easy-to-maintain landscape.

Benefits of Mulching:

  • Water conservation
  • Soil moisture retention
  • Keeping roots cool
  • Preventing soil crusting
  • Discouraging weed growth
  • Adding nutrients to the soil as mulches decompose

Mulches may be Organic and Inorganic. 

Organic mulches include wheat straw, bark chips, chopped leaves, decomposed kitchen waste, paper, compost, pine needles, and sawdust. These are added in the upper 2-4 inches of soil.

 Inorganic mulches include plastic/synthetic landscape fabrics (let water through but help retain moisture), rubber chips, rock, etc.

Turf Alternatives:

Regular mowing and continuous regeneration are the necessities of turfgrasses, and that is why they need more nutrients and water than any other plant type. Xeriscapers recommend limiting the turfgrass area as much as possible or not establishing turf at all. Native grasses consume less water than non-native varieties. 

Maintenance of a Xeriscape:

Plants do not speak and depend on the grower for their everyday needs. The best care of your plants can be to simply keep an eye on them, and they will tell you if they are suffering and need your help. You don’t need to check a maintenance chart to know when a plant is getting too much sun or needs more or less water, and it is really pretty intuitive. 

Xeriscape Plants:

Planting trees and perennial shrubs is a long-term investment, so selecting your plants with your local climate in mind is advisable. What may be considered a xeriscape plant in one part of the world may not last a week in your neighborhood. Do your research and always lean toward the hardiest plants you can find for your area.

Catalpha speciosa (Bait Tree):

  • A fast-growing, deciduous plant tolerant of high ph levels is native to North America and an excellent hardwood.
  • It has white flowers with yellow strips and purple spots inside, green-colored leaves.

Celtis occidentalis (Common Hackberry): 

  • The upper side of the leaf is bright green, and the lower side is pale green.
  • Has greenish flowers.
  • A deciduous, shade-loving plant tolerant of a wide range of alkaline and acidic soils.

Gymnocladus dioicus (Kentucky Coffee-tree):

  • Greenish-white foliage
  • A popular US street tree, used as an indicator of calcareous soils, tolerant to drought and poor soil.

Robinia pseudoacacia (Black Locust):

  • Creamy white and sometimes pink or purple, dark-blue green leaves are scented.
  • Fast-growing, spreading, shade-intolerant tree thrives best in dry soils. 

Acer tatricum (Tatar maple):

  • It has reddish foliage in fall and creamy white flowers.
  • Deciduous and spreading, it can be raised as a bush or small height tree.
  • It is often grown as an ornamental tree throughout the US and Europe.
  • Well suited to dry, alkaline soils.

Quercus gambelii (Gambel Oak, White oak):

  • Deep green-colored leaves turn orange-yellow in autumn.
  • Drought tolerant needs richer soils and rapidly re-establishes itself from the root sprouts, a food source for animals browsing.

Cupressus arizonica (Arizona Cypress):

  • Greyish-green to Bluish-green foliage
  • Evergreen, beautiful ornamental cone-shaped canopy, resistant to cypress canker disease.

Atriplex canescens (Saltbush):

  • Greenish, gray-yellow foliage
  • Tolerant to alkaline soils
  • Native to the Western US with an upright spreading habit.

Berberis thunbergii (Japanese Barberry):

  • Deciduous plant with pale yellow flowers in spring, tenacious berries, and deep red/purple leaves in autumn.
  • Very thorny and hard to work with.

Caryopteris clandolensis (Blue-Beard, Blue-Mist-Spirea or Dark Night):

  • Blue, Purple, Violet flowers attract bees.
  • Aromatic foliage
  • It prefers bright sunlight and neutral-acidic soil

Fendlera rupicola (False Mock-Orange/Cliff Fendler bush):

  • Creamy-white, Fragrant flowers
  • Deciduous, glossy foliage
  • Tolerant of semi-arid conditions.

Holodiscus dumosus (Rock spiraea):

  • Pinkish-white to creamy-white flowers
  • Deciduous, aromatic leaves
  • Survives in dry habitats, moist-cool mountain forests, and shady locations.

Dasiphora fruticosa (Cinquefoil):

  • White, Pale-to-bright yellow, orange-reddish flowers
  • Thrives in well-drained rocky areas
  • Low-maintenance and hardy plant.

Rubus deliciosus (Snowy bramble, Boulder raspberry):

  • White, Fragrant blooms in May-June
  • Native to the US belongs to the rose family.
  • Deciduous while flowering stems are perennial, prefer full sun, propagated by cuttings in early spring

Shepherdia argentea (Silver buffalo-berry):

  • Pale-yellow, no petals flower
  • Food for mule-deer and sharp-tailed-grouse
  • Has dye and medicinal values
  • Tolerates drought, poor soil, full sun, and acidic/basic/neutral soils

Xeriscaping in Action

Metropolitan Phoenix is one of the most rapidly urbanizing cities in the US. As a result, the urban heat island (UHI) of this city was significant. Low-water demand, x xerophytic trees with large, spreading canopies were planted in the city, residential yards, road-sides on a large scale to reduce the thermal discomfort. Compared to existing circumstances, a 2.5 degree Celsius decrease in temperature had been noticed. (Ch w & Brazel, 2012) 

The Path to a Healthier Planet

People of the US and other European countries really seem to appreciate the green of a traditional turfgrass lawn. They consider dark green lawns and garden beds filled with color to symbolize prosperity. It has, of course, become so since it takes a good deal of free time and extra resources to maintain such a display.

In areas of the world that get ample rainfall and have rich soils, such a display can be almost effortless if the correct plants are planted. These areas and the world benefit from the air cleaning and heat-absorbing properties of the lushly planted gardens and lawns.

These spots where native plants grow lush and full are not the trouble spots. The areas of the world that are not suited to grow lush, green, and colorful plants are the areas that will benefit most from xeriscaping. In these areas where humans have been irrigating and fertilizing for generations to keep up the lush appearance, it would be much better served with xeriscaping.

We need to stop fighting mother nature and instead take her lead and follow obediently. If your plants aren’t growing where you planted them, it is not nature’s fault; it is your fault for planting a plant that is not well suited for its environment. If we would only learn to choose the correct plants for our environment, we could all live on a healthier, easier-to-maintained, naturally balanced planet.

References:

Çetİn, N., & Mansuroğlu, S. (2018). Determination of plant species can be used in Xeriscape design under Mediterranean conditions: the sample of Antalya/Konyaaltı. Ege Üniversitesi Ziraat Fakültesi Dergisi, 55(1), 11-18.

Chow, W. T., & Brazel, A. J. (2012). Assessing xeriscaping as a sustainable heat island mitigation approach for a desert city. Building and Environment, 47, 170-181.

Cinar, H., & AKTAS, N. K. (2018). Xeriscape Analysis: A Case Study In A Residential Garden In Istanbul. J Environ Prot Ecol, 19(4), 1904 

Klett, J. E., Wilson, C. R., & Carter, S. (2009). Xeriscaping: trees and shrubs. Colorado State University. Libraries.   

Mandă, M., & Salahoru, C. (2018). Xeriscaping. Analele Univer ității din Craiova-Biologi , Horticultura, Tehnologia Prelucrarii Produselor Agricole, Ingineria Mediului, 23, 144-149.

Mustafa, D., Smucker, T. A., Ginn, F., Johns, R., & Connely, S. (2010). Xeriscape people and the cultural politics of turfgrass transformation. Environment and Planning D: Society and Space, 28(4), 600-617.

Özyavuz, A., Özyavuz, M., & Kemal, N. ( 012). Xeriscape in Landscape Design. Landscape Planning, 353.

Welsh, D. F., Welch, W. C., & Duble, R. L. (2007). Xeriscape… Landscape Wat r Conservation. Texas FARMER Collection.

United States Native Plant Gardening

Pretty native garden

“Because life is fueled by the energy captured from the sun by plants, it will be the plants that we use in our gardens that determine what nature will be like 10, 20, and 50 years from now.”

Plants grow happily when the soil, temperature, and other environmental conditions are in accordance with their nature. This is why gardening with only native plants is always your best bet for an easy-to-maintain garden. You cannot grow every plant everywhere. The United States is a vast country and home to the most significant Temperate Flora compared with the rest of the world.

Fossil fuel burning, use of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, and discharge of improperly treated wastewater into the water bodies have caused alarming air, water, and soil pollution levels. There is a need to restore the ecological balance, minimize chemical use, move towards nature. All of this is possible through growing native plants. Native species are easy to propagate, maintain, and they grow abundantly and efficiently in their native habitat, producing oxygen and reducing pollution every moment of the day.

A Selection of US Native Trees:

Red Maple (Acer rubrum):

The tree that beautifies your garden first in the autumn will be the Red Maple with red, orange, and Yellow-colored flowers. Red Maple is native to Florida and Texas. Different suitable cultivars of red maple are Scarlet Sentinel, Shade King, North-wood, Burgundy Bell, Autumn-Flame, Armstrong, and Autumn Radiance.

  • Red maple is a temperate tree, grows well in almost every region of the United States, most abundantly in Central North America and mid-South Climates. Its growth stunted where the temperature goes below -40 degrees Celsius.
  • It requires partial shade to full sunlight to grow (choose the partial shady place in your lawn to grow Acer Rubrum. It can be grown in almost every kind of soil (clayey, salty, acidic, and loamy) but not salty soil.
  • It is elegantly grown in lawns, residential streets, and ornamental gardens. Mainly propagated through seeds (the tree produces seeds in late spring) but can also be raised through stump cuttings. It is recommended to purchase the plant grown from seed to have a strong root system and be true-to-type.
  • It is a deciduous tree and sheds leaves at the end of autumn in preparation for the winters. In the spring, new leaves come out to replace the foliage shed.
  • No need for annual pruning
  • Irrigation is likely not needed after the plant is established.
  • These plants should not need additional fertilization as long as the leaves are left to decompose naturally over the roots.
  • The average lifespan of Red Maple is 100 years.

Cottonwood/Poplar tree:

  • Black poplars: Populus deltoids (commonly known as Necklace poplar native to eastern North America’s species) and Populus fremontii (locally called as Fremont’s cottonwood) western North America’s species)Balsam Poplars: best grow in the North American regions with cool temperate climates.
  • The Poplar tree plays a vital role in the phytoremediation process and can be raised as a tree and a bush.
  • It can be used in some constructed wetland filtration systems and is commercially grown to remediate soils polluted with heavy metals and for the treatment of sewage wastewater.
  • You can very quickly grow a poplar tree in your garden by planting a cutting taken from a one-year-old poplar tree stem, it has vigorous growth habits, and its canopy can spread to 30 feet in 9-10 years.

White Oak (Quercus alba):

Oak is the National tree of the United States of America. The White Oak is quite well adapted to much of the US climate conditions and is one of the prominent hardwood trees native to North Central America. It is called white oak due to the whiteish color of the underside of the leaves. The large, wide canopy and thousands of leaves are good for adding oxygen to the environment and absorbing high concentrations of CO2.

Star Fruit Tree (Averrhoa carambola):

It is a tropical to semi-tropical climate tree, widely grown in Central America, South America, Hawaii, and Caribbean regions. It can be raised as a tree and a bush depending upon the space available in the garden, produces leaves and fruit (its fruit is edible, rich in Vitamin C, 7% carbohydrates, 1% protein/fruit) throughout the year. Irrigate the young tree every 4-5 days, and then weekly irrigation is enough.

American Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua):

The Sweetgum tree (also nicknamed “alligator-wood”) is one of the most popular ornamental trees (recognized by its five-cornered star-shaped leaves of reddish-orange color) of the warm temperate regions of Eastern North America and Tropical areas of Mexico and Central America. You can maintain the young plant of sweetgum into a medium-sized, spreading, or a heightened narrow canopy tree depending upon the space available in your garden.

Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida):

When you own a small garden in your house, the flowering dogwood would be a good choice for you. It is a beautiful white/pink colored flowering tree, produced in the spring and reddish-pink foliage during the autumn.

Cornus Florida is native to South Central United States, grows best in slightly acidic soils, requires partially shaded conditions, and can grow 33 feet tall.

It is very easy to grow and propagate a dogwood plant; you can easily grow it from seed or shoot at home. The average life span of a dogwood tree is almost 60 years.

  • Locally available cultivars are Gulf Coast Pink, Plena (Anthracnose resistant), Jean’s Appalachian Snow, and Kay’s Appalachian Mist (both are Powdery Mildew Resistant), Purple Glory (Stem Canker resistant).

Tree planting instructions for home gardeners:

  • The average life span of most trees is not less than 30 years, so the correct placement for your tree is critical to its long-term success and your long-term happiness.
  • Consider the tree’s mature size and sunlight requirements when choosing a site.
  • Dig a hole at least a foot wider than the tree’s root mass and about as deep as the existing root mass.
  • Don’t plant the tree too deeply in the hole. Every plant has a depth at which it ikes to grow. Nursery-bought trees often have too much soil piled on top of the roots due to cultivating around the plant. It is essential that you clear the excess soil off of the top of the roots before deciding on a final planting depth.
  • More trees die from planting too deep than too shallow, so always err on the side of too high.
  • Once the tree is standing in the hole at the correct depth, backfill the hole with friable soil and perhaps some aged compost.
  • Use the excavated soils to form a slight soil berm around the plant to allow more effective watering for the first growing season.

A Selection of US Native Flowering Plants:

Rose:

Rosa Carolina, which is native to eastern North America, can be found in all the states and provinces of the US. Rosa gymnocarpae, which is native to western North America, can be found in almost all the states and regions of the US also.

How to propagate a Rose:

  • Take rose stem cutting (in late Jan or start of Feb) of 8-12 inches in length and pencil thickness from the parent plant.
  • Place the bottom end in any available growth mixture, give it sunlight and keep it moist.
  • Apply natural fertilizers as needed to avoid chlorosis.

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus):

Helianthus is a genus of hundreds of species cultivated commercially for ornamental and phytoremediation features. In gardens, annual species are grown, including:

  • Helianthus annuus: “American Giant, Giant Sun-gold, Yellow Disk, Solar Eclipse, and Autumn Beauty” are locally available cultivars in the local plant nurseries. Propagated through seeds, they do not demand spectacular conditions to grow but need full sunlight.
  • They are planted in a constructed wetland for the filtration of heavy metals like Ni, Cd, Cu, etc.

Cone Flower (Echinacea purpurea):

It is an excellent ornamental flowering plant of temperate regions that flowers throughout spring and autumn. Once established, it is a drought-tolerant plant that loves partial shade and grows well in moist to dry soils. It is successfully propagated through seeds or clump, or root cuttings. “Giant Ruby” is one of the popular cultivars grown widely.

Coneflower is a medicinal plant used to treat throat infections, stomach cramps, coughs, snake bites, etc.

Blanket flower (Gaillardia spp.):

A species-rich genus “Gaillardia” contains numerous traditional and selective cultivars to beautify your garden with their red, pink, orange, yellow, and purple colored flowers. Almost all the species are native to the USA, for example;

  • Gaillardia amblyodon (the Maroon blanket flower)
  • Gaillardia aristata (common Gaillardia)
  • Gaillardia multiceps (onion blanket flower, commonly grown in rock gardening)
  • Gaillardia pulchella (Fire-wheel, grows best in North America climatic conditions)

Flower planting instructions for home gardeners:

  • Late summer to early fall is the best time to grow cuttings. Dip the bottom end in a rooting medium or keep dipped in a glass of water and change the water daily.
  • Once the cutting develops roots, then plant it in a suitable environment.
  • Annuals and perennials need well-drained and somewhat porous soil for root establishment.
  • In pots, try to add compost material and soil at the ratio of 1:2 and shelter them to survive during frost periods.
  • Water new planting according to need. Feel the soil beneath the plant. If it is moist, it is good; if dry, it needs water. Pretty simple.

A Selection of US Native Shrubs:

American Canberrybush (Viburnum trilobum):

It’s a beautiful, deciduous shrub that produces white, small flowers in June-July that cover the whole shrub presenting a very fresh look. It can be easily grown through softwood cuttings in spring. The advantage of planting the Viburnum is that it produces leaves that clean up the volatile organic compounds in the air, release oxygen, and in the summer, has beautiful flowers. No need to add chemical fertilizers; just adding a few kitchen scraps from time to time will be enough for a healthy Cranberry.

White Sage (Salvia apiana):

White sage also called “sacred sage,” is an evergreen shrub native to southwestern regions of the US. It requires full sunny conditions and well-drained, sandy loam soil to grow correctly and flower at the appropriate time. If your garden soil is not suitable for this shrub, you can grow it in planter boxes to avoid overgrowth, soil problems and add structures (in the form of colorful planter boxes containing green shrubs) to your garden.

Hydrangea:

Hydrangea (grown for its large ornamental flowerheads of beautiful colors) is a genus of many species, either evergreen or deciduous native to a wide range of climates in America. It is either grown as a shrub (spread rapidly, making colonies through colonization) or may become a small tree if maintained. It likes to grow under the canopy of hardwood, so you can create a Focal Point in the garden using a specimen tree and Hydrangea around its trunk. The locally cultivated species of Hydrangea in the North and Southern regions of the US are:

  • Smooth/White Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescence): “Annabelle” is the best cultivar; most cold-hardy and Hydrangea roots have medicinal importance.
  • Oak-leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia): flowers are creamy-white when they emerge, turn to pink as they grow, and finally attain brown color in the autumn.
  • Blue Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla): has naturalized in the Americas, deciduous, “Mop-head and Lace-cap” are the locally available main cultivars.
  • Silver-leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea radiata): like the cool and moist climate, less tolerant to the heat and shade, produce silvery-white flowers, “Samantha and Greer” are the locally available cultivars.

References:

Mastuura, M. I. S. F.; Dias, F. R. T.; Picoli, J. F.; Lucas, K. R. G.; Castro, C.; Hirakuri, M. H. (2017). “Life-cycle assessment of the soybean-sunflower production system in the Brazilian Cerrado” (PDF). The International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment. 22 (4): 492–501. doi:10.1007/s11367-016-1089-6. S2CID 112613303.

Encheva, J. Christov, M and Shindrova, P. Developing Mutant Sunflower Line (Helianthus Annuus L.) By Combined Used Of Classical Method With Induced Mutagenesis and Embryo Culture Method. Bulgarian Journal of Agricultural Science [accessed October 15, 2014]; 14(4):397-404

Awtry-Smith, Marilyn J. The Symbol of Spiritualism: The Sunflower. Reprinted from the New Educational Course on Modern Spiritualism. Appendix IV in Talking to the Other Side: A History of Modern Spiritualism and Mediumship, ed. by Todd Jay Leonard. ISBN 0-595-36353-9.

Denk, Thomas; Grimm, Guido W.; Manos, Paul S.; Deng, Min; Hipp, Andrew L. (2017), Gil-Pelegrín, Eustaquio; Peguero-Pina, José Javier; Sancho-Knapik, Domingo (eds.), “An Updated Infrageneric Classification of the Oaks: Review of Previous Taxonomic Schemes and Synthesis of Evolutionary Patterns,” Oaks Physiological Ecology. Exploring the Functional Diversity of Genus Quercus L., Springer International Publishing, 7, pp. 13–38, doi:10.1007/978-3-319-69099-5_2, ISBN 978-3-319-69098-8

Liquidambar styraciflua: a renewable source of shikimic acid. Liza B. Enrich, Margaret L. Scheuermann, Ashley Mohadjer, Kathryn R. Matthias, Chrystal F. Eller, M. Scott Newman, Michael Fujinaka and Thomas Poon, Tetrahedron Letters, 2008, volume 49, pages 2503–2505, doi:10.1016/j.tetlet.2008.02.140

Tuell, J. K., Fiedler, A. K., Landis, D., & Isaacs, R. (2014). Visitation by wild and managed bees (Hymenoptera: Apoidea) to eastern US native plants in conservation programs. Environmental Entomology, 37(3), 707-718.

Padullés Cubino, J., Cavender‐Bares, J., Hobbie, S. E., Hall, S. J., Trammell, T. L., Neill, C., … & Groffman, P. M. (2019). Contribution of non‐native plants to the phylogenetic homogenization of US yard floras. Ecosphere, 10(3), e02638.

Bradley, B. A., Early, R., & Sorte, C. J. (2015). Space to invade? Comparative range infilling and potential range of invasive and native plants. Global Ecology and Biogeography, 24(3), 348-359.

Climate Change

Greenhouse Gasses

Deforestation

Consuming Too Much and Wasting Too Much

Generating more Power

Climate and Air

Effects/Impacts of Climate Change

Hotter Temperature

Increased Droughts

Soil Salinity

Health Effects of Climate Change

Worldwide Measures to Control Climate Change

Paris Agreement

COP (Conference of the parties)

NASA’s Role in Climate Change Control

Global Warming

Difference between Global Warming and Climate Change

Effects of Global Warming (similar to climate change)

  • A rise in average atmospheric temperature
  • Extreme weather events (hottest summers, mild winters, droughts, etc.)
  • Melting of glaciers
  • Acidification of oceans
  • Soil salinization
  • Respiratory, cancerous, and other diseases to humans
  • Biodiversity and ecosystem disturbance

Conclusion

References:

  • Tol, R. S. (2009). The economic effects of climate change. Journal of economic perspectives, 23(2), 29-51.
  • Haines, A., & Patz, J. A. (2004). Health effects of climate change. Jama, 291(1), 99-103.
  • Short, F. T., & Neckles, H. A. (1999). The effects of global climate change on seagrasses. Aquatic Botany, 63(3-4), 169-196.
  • Oerlemans, J. (2001). Glaciers and climate change. CRC Press.
  • Dyurgerov, M. B., & Meier, M. F. (2000). Twentieth-century climate change: evidence from small glaciers. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 97(4), 1406-1411.
  • Yagiz, A. K., Cakici, M., Aydogan, N., Omezli, S., Yerlikaya, B. A., Ayten, S., … & Haverkort, A. J. (2020). Exploration of Climate Change Effects on Shifting Potato Seasons, Yields and Water Use Employing NASA and National Long-Term Weather Data. Potato Research, 63(4).
  • Anenberg, S. C., Bindl, M., Brauer, M., Castillo, J. J., Cavalieri, S., Duncan, B. N., … & West, J. J. (2020). Using satellites to track indicators of global air pollution and climate change impacts: Lessons learned from a NASA‐supported science‐stakeholder collaborative. GeoHealth, 4(7), e2020GH000270.
  • Schneider, S. H. (1989). Global warming: are we entering the greenhouse century.
  • Botkin, D. B., Saxe, H., Araujo, M. B., Betts, R., Bradshaw, R. H., Cedhagen, T., … & Stockwell, D. R. (2007). Forecasting the effects of global warming on biodiversity. Bioscience, 57(3), 227-236.

Best Ground Cover Plants To Walk On

Are you looking for nice ground cover plants that can tolerate foot traffic? Do you want your yard to stand out with a splash of life and color?

There are lots of walkable groundcovers perfect for your lawn, rock garden, walkways, or garden beds if you want some natural beauty in your outdoor space. Some even have fragrance, deer and rabbit resistance, and weed controlling and erosion controlling qualities.

Give these walkable ground covers a try for a beautiful, low-maintenance, and hardy surface for your landscape.

Groundcovers That Can Withstand Foot Traffic

These short, mat-forming plants can withstand foot traffic pretty well and, you’ll love that some varieties have a pleasant scent!

Sedum

sedum

Sedum groundcovers are heat and drought tolerant, making them suitable for sunny, open areas. These hardy plants need little maintenance and can withstand heavy foot traffic. You may place individual plants between pavers. Or you can roll out sedum “tiles” like sod to cover wider spaces.

Sedum has a variety of species, but the best groundcovers are the short ones. Varieties such as “Tricolor,” “Dragon’s Blood,” “Blue Spruce,” “Fuldaglut,” and “Kamtschaticum” are great ones to pick. 

In the late summer, most sedum groundcovers grow lovely flowers that attract butterflies and bees. Its succulent leaves, which come in various colors such as green, bluish-gray, and reddish bronze, are adorned with five-petaled white, yellow, or pink flowers. In the winter, this evergreen species’ leaves change into beautiful red and russet colors.

Blue Star Creeper (Isotoma fluviatilis)

This Australian native is a hardy plant that withstands high foot traffic, drought, and harsh weather.

The beauty of the blue star creeper will enliven gloomy parts of your landscape. In the spring and early summer, this charming plant, which is also called “swamp isotome”, blooms in clusters of light blue star-shaped flowers.

You can turn this blanket of flowers into a lawn substitute in areas where turfgrass cannot thrive due to the shade. You can also use the plants as a cover for spring bulbs, between patio stones, or as a boundary plant.

But, note that blue star creeper quickly spreads by underground runners once developed and can be invasive in cool, humid conditions.

Another thing that’s nice about Blue Star Creeper is it’s a deer-resistant and rabbit-resistant ground cover. It’s also low-maintenance and hardy since it does not require lots of water, unlike your typical lawn. It only grows to a height of three inches, so you can forget about using your lawnmower because it doesn’t need mowing.

Hens-and-Chicks (Sempervivum sp.)

close up of hens and chicks

Hens-and-chicks are a must-have for every groundcover lineup. The plant’s characteristics are distinct and pleasing to the eye.

These lovely succulents, also known as rosettes, named for the baby “chicks” (smaller rosettes) that accompany each mother plant or “hen” (larger rosettes), come in an interesting selection of colors, shapes, and sizes that you can combine to produce a growing mosaic.

Use Hens and chicks to add color and dimension to ordinary plants. You can choose to place Hens-and-chicks in the spaces between pavers on walkways or patios, in-wall gardens, or rock gardens. Since its tiny, young plantlets gradually trail over the edges, this plant would also look fantastic in containers and through gardens.

This plant thrives in well-drained, rocky soil—, if they are exposed to too much moisture, the outermost leaves can die. Plant them in dry arid locations and watch them thrive.

If you find the plants too densely packed in a spot, move the chicks to a different part of your yard. Hens-and-chicks can withstand harsh treatment, but they wouldn’t like a lot of foot traffic.

Portulaca (Portulaca grandiflora)

portulaca

Portulaca blooms are available in a multitude of colors. The plant, also known as Moss Rose, has fleshy, thin succulent leaves and grows up to eight inches tall and a foot wide, creating a mat. The needlelike portulaca leaves, like scotch moss, spring back into place after you walk on them.

The blooms of portulaca are a wonderful thing to see in zones 9 to 11. The flowers come in singles, semi-doubles, and doubles and red, yellow, orange, white, and other pastel shades.

While some trimming is needed if you want to use portulaca as a groundcover, you’ll find that it’s worth the effort once it blooms.

Moss Rose or Portulaca looks great in front of borders, in a rock or crevice garden, in pots and hanging planters, or cascading down a wall. It can self-seed in a non-invasive manner. Portulaca is drought and heat tolerant, and you should plant it in an area with full sun and well-drained rocky or sandy soil.

Red spike ice plant (Cephalophyllum ‘Red Spike’)

Red Spike Ice Plant is a succulent plant with vibrant red flowers that bloom in the early spring. Considering the small size and delicate features of this groundcover’s succulent foliage, the elegance of its flowers are rather striking. Buds emerge in abundance in late winter to early spring, blooming in a dazzling carmine red or hot pink starburst-shaped flower two inches in diameter around noon.

While red spike ice plant grows in small, dense clumps and only spreads a few feet, its fibrous roots and good resistance to drought make it an excellent soil stabilizer for slopes and banks. Its dense, grey-green leaves turn reddish in colder temperatures, and its eccentric, upright growth habit brings architectural appeal to succulent planters, borders, and rock gardens.

To keep this beautiful evergreen growing comfortably in your backyard, give it proper drainage.

Creeping golden buttons (Cotula ‘Tiffindell Gold’)

golden buttons

Creeping Golden Buttons is a sun-loving, drought-resistant ground cover that withstands foot traffic. This plant has lovely, finely textured, rich emerald green leaves and bright, golden yellow button-like flowers that bloom in the middle of summer. For your small areas, it would work well as a lawn substitute.

It would re-bloom if you deadhead it, and if you want to keep it healthy, you should water it moderately. We suggest using compost-rich garden loam for planting and placing it in sunny or partially shady areas.

This excellent ground cover survives in Zones 5 to 10, and, amazingly, it’s deer and rabbit resistant.

Silver carpet (Dymondia margaretae)

Silver carpet is another top pick for low-water lawn replacements since it is one of the shortest walkable ground cover plants, growing just two to four inches tall.

Silver carpet has tiny, rounded leaves that make a beautiful ground cover. It’s better suited to smaller, darker areas that aren’t too shady. Once established, this silver-leafed plant flourishes in quick-draining soils. It is drought-tolerant, making it an excellent option for sunny areas with well-draining soil.

This plant thrives in Zones 9 to 11.

Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia)

In medieval times, Lysimachia plants have been used to treat wounds. Lysimachia has also been used to help treat gallstones in Chinese medicine.

Because of its golden leaves shaped like small coins, Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) is also called moneywort. During late spring, it blooms bright, yellow flowers that come in singles or pairs. The leaves turn a darker green in shady spots and turn a more intense yellow in brighter, sunnier areas.

These plants naturally grow in boggy, moist areas in the wild, and as a result, you can use them as an aquatic plant or line the ponds or streams’ banks. If you’re planting in water, use aquatic pots and compost, and split dense clumps every three to four years.

Since Creeping Jenny spreads rapidly, space these plants 18 inches apart in damp soil in full sun to partial shade, and if you’ve used it as a ground cover, keep Creeping Jenny in control with regular trimming. Propagation by seeds or by division is simple if you wish to cultivate more plants.

The plant thrives in Zones 3 to 8.

Thyme (Thymus spp.)

thyme

Thyme is a fragrant and hardy ground cover that is ideal for sunny areas in your garden, where you can enjoy its fresh fragrance any time you stroll by. The non-culinary kinds, such as mother-of-thyme, red creeping thyme, and wooly thyme, are among the best. All three produce thick, attractive foliage mats.

Creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum), also known as ‘Mother of Thyme,’ is a spreading thyme variety that is easy to cultivate. It works well as a lawn replacement or as part of a living patio with pavers or stepping stones.

Creeping thyme certainly thrives in the sun. Soil drainage and full sun is important for the survival of any thyme plant. It prefers loose, rocky, sandy soil and loam if it drains well, but not wet clay.

Thymus longicaulis, on the other hand, is another species. It’s also known as Mediterranean Creeping Thyme, and since it’s native to temperate Mediterranean parts of the world, it likes full sun.

The Mediterranean Creeping Thyme has long, shiny green leaves that makes a lovely ground cover. When established, it becomes pretty tough and forms a thick mat of weed-controlling leaves. In summer, you’ll see it with wonderful pink flowers held closely over the foliage.

Thyme is also resistant to deer and rabbits.

Rupturewort (Herniaria glabra)

Rupturewort is a hardy, low-maintenance ground cover that forms a carpet of small green leaves that turn a bronzy red color in the fall and winter. It is native to Western Asia and Europe.

It’s low-growing, spreads pretty rapidly, needs little attention, and can help keep weeds at bay. Green Carpet, as it’s sometimes called, is not picky when it comes to soil quality.

Planting Rupturewort can be an outstanding choice if you have infertile soil that makes cultivating a flourishing lawn difficult. Despite being soft, the plant holds up well to foot traffic and has a distinct fragrance that’s almost vanilla-like.

Herniaria is a perfect option as a lawn substitute for growing between flagstones or as a ground cover since it is almost indestructible.

This plant lives in Zones 5 to 9, and it’s deer resistant. You’ll also appreciate that it’s drought-tolerant, thanks to its one long taproot.

Ajuga (Ajuga reptans)

ajuga

Bugleweed, Bugleherb, Ajuga, or Carpet Bugle, or Blue Bugle is a quickly growing, dense ground cover that’s part of the mint family. It is a nice choice for a thick ground cover even in cool, shady places where grass won’t thrive, but it’s also an ideal plant for damp areas, though it will accept soils on the drier side. Ensure that you place it where there’s good air circulation.

Bugleweed grows short but provides a dazzling display of color in your garden. This low-maintenance walkable groundcover plant is admired for its ability to cover your yard with vibrant foliage over time.

Ajuga produces blue, white, or purple flower spikes in the spring over a foundation of chocolate, bronze, or vibrant green foliage. Ajuga grows well in pots, too.

‘Emerald Carpet’ Manzanita (Arctostaphylos ‘Emerald Carpet’)

The ‘Emerald Carpet’ manzanita is a hybrid: a cross between A. uva-ursi and A. nummularia. This manzanita works well as a low-water lawn substitute. In coastal areas, it likes sunlight, while in inland sites, it thrives in part-shade.

‘Emerald Carpet’ manzanita forms an enticing evergreen carpet of red stems and green leaves, growing four to six inches tall and up to three feet wide. Emerald Carpet produces small white flowers in the spring.

While it has a high level of resiliency and the potential to tolerate frequent traffic, its twiggy branches make an awkward walking surface. It’s a great choice for places where you need access but don’t need a completely even surface or just want a stretch of green.

Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis)

soapwort

Many popular perennials were formerly grown for purposes other than aesthetics. Soapwort leaves, for instance, were once used for cleaning lather since when they come in contact with water, they make a natural foamy lather.

Saponaria, its scientific name, comes from the Latin word sapo, which means “soap,” and, as its common name, refers to its cleaning properties.

Did you know that soapwort contains saponins? Despite their toxicity, these compounds are poorly metabolized in the body. So, they manage to pass by without causing any harm. Thoroughly cooking the plant breaks them down as well.

Soapwort is now admired for its small, rough-hewn appearance and lovely red, pink, or white flowers.

It would look lovely when you use it to line a garden path or tuck into walls or rock gardens. Soapwort is a drought-resistant and deer-tolerant plant.

Mazus (Mazus reptans)

Mazus, also known as cup flower, produces a thick mass of bright green foliage that’s accompanied by orchid-like, purplish-blue flowers with white and yellow markings in late spring.

The name of the genus derives from the Greek word mazos, which means “teat.”

Mazus can grow only up to three inches tall, but when you see it all over the ground, you’ll appreciate the huge difference it makes. It’s ideal for walkways or along a flower border. This small, beautiful plant can take light foot traffic and grows rapidly.

Dwarf Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus)

dwarf mondo grass

Dwarf mondo grass, in landscape mass plantings, would look especially stunning.

This dwarf variety makes a rich ground cover of dense, deep green, grass-like clusters about half the size of other types. Because of its thin (less than one inch wide) leaves, this plant works great as an edging plant, along a pathway, or packed into rocks for a nice contrast.

You can also use Dwarf Mondo Grass with water, slopes, block cylinders, model railroading, and indoor plant pots to display the stunning cobalt blue fruits obscured by the foliage.

Plus, it doesn’t need much maintenance to maintain its good looks; a simple shearing in the spring would give you fresh growth after winter. Shade and damp, well-drained soils are ideal for this plant.

It’s also nice that this plant grows slowly since there’s no need to be concerned about its growth going out of hand.

Beach Strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis)

beach strawberry

From a botanical standpoint, the strawberry is not a berry. The fleshy component of the fruit is produced not from the plant’s ovaries but from the receptacle that carries the ovaries. Therefore, it is an aggregate accessory fruit. The whitish specks that are often mistaken for seeds are the true fruits, known as achenes, each containing a tiny seed.

Fragaria chiloensis, or the “Beach Strawberry,” is one of the two parent species (the other one is Fragaria virginiana) that has been hybridized to produce the garden strawberry. The Pacific Ocean coasts of North and South America and Hawaii are its natural habitat.

Also called Chilean Strawberry, Sand Strawberry, or Coastal Strawberry, the Beach Strawberry is a short, spreading, evergreen perennial with somewhat lobed, shiny, dark green leaves turn quite reddish in the winter.

It bears a rich variety of tiny (an inch across), five-petaled white flowers from mid-spring to early summer. The lovely flowers are further accentuated by the five short, pointy green sepals with a yellow center. In mid to late summer, you’ll be pleased to see a bunch of small, tasty red fruits.

This plant is simple to grow and spreads to establish a dense ground cover. It can be used as a lawn replacement since it can withstand moderate foot traffic and stabilize dunes and slopes. It is perfect for erosion control.

Corsican Mint (Mentha requienii)

corsican mint

Corsican mint (Mentha requienii) is one of the smallest of the mint family, growing to just an inch tall and forming dense mats of aromatic, minty-smelling leaves.

This plant is a mint native to Corsica, mainland Italy, and Sardinia. It’s also naturalized in the British Isles and Portugal.

Late into summer, Corsican mint grows very small lilac flowers that are easy to miss.

It enjoys partial shade during the hottest part of the summer in warm environments but still flourishes in full sun. Plant Corsican mint between stones in your pathway so you can smell it every time you walk through the foliage. It grows well in the spaces between paving stones and works excellently as a lawn with thyme and chamomile.

This mint species grows well in drier soils than the other mints. It thrives in heavy clay soils as well.

Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata)

creeping phlox

The springtime flowers of creeping phlox (also called moss phlox, mountain phlox, and moss pink) are a refreshing sight after a long, gloomy winter. Subulata, its specific epithet (means “awl-shaped” in Latin), describes its leaves perfectly. In comparison, its genus name comes from the Greek word phlox, which means “flame,” which appropriately describes the intense flower colors of certain varieties.

These hardy plants are surrounded by blue, pink, purple, white, red, or bicolor flowers for many weeks. The plants propagate quickly, and their deep green needle-like foliage makes them look beautiful even if they aren’t in bloom. Creeping phlox would serve its purpose best on small slopes that drain easily during storms, but you can also position it over a rock wall to create a beautiful ornamental piece.

Numerous cultivars of this plant are commercially available. Butterfly and other insect pollinators find it appealing.

Baby Tears (Soleirolia soleirolii)

baby tears

Baby tears is commonly thought of as a terrarium plant or houseplant. However, it makes a nice bright green ground cover in a warm climate that fits well in containers, vertical gardens, or shady paths.

When baby tears are kept healthy, they grow quickly, creating a mossy cushion. Maintain a low level of foot traffic on it. It’s a great alternative to grass if you’re looking for something different.

It can be grown in lush, organic, regularly damp, well-drained soils yet in partial shade to full shade and is winter hardy to USDA Zones 9-11.

If you were to keep it indoors, place it in a bright sunlit spot, such as near a window. You can also put it on your patio or even in shadier areas.

Snow-in-Summer (Cerastium tomentosum)

snow in summer

The common name accurately describes it: In late May and June, snow-in-summer creates huge drifts of small white blooms over a mound of spreading silvery grey-green foliage. Although it can self-sow, it rarely becomes invasive.

You can shear plants after flowering to keep them looking healthy. Snow-in-summer thrives in cooler temperatures, and it has a hard time dealing with hot, humid weather, particularly if the plant is still damp.

Since snow-in-summer’s natural habitat is a dry, rocky setting, drainage is important when growing this plant. The roots of the plant can rot if the soil remains wet for an extended period.

Make sure your snow-in-summer gets as much sun as possible if you want to see it with the brightest silver foliage. Anything less, it will rot, the leaves will turn greyish-green, and the plant will become leggy.

Thyme Leaf Speedwell (Veronica oltensis)

veronica

Thyme Leaf Speedwell (Veronica oltensis) is a lovely, hardy ground cover with thin stems of small evergreen leaves surrounded by pretty blue flowers in the start and the middle of spring.

This plant looks like creeping thyme because of its little dark green leaves on trailing stems, but it doesn’t have any fragrance, unlike creeping thyme. The branches are covered in pinnate, somewhat hairy leaves that extend upward as they trail. These evergreen plants with lacy foliage are pretty, even more so when they are flowering in late spring or early summer. The flower colors can be sky blue, dark purplish-blue, or bright azure.

This perennial plant with beautiful flowers and foliage works well as a crack filler between paving stones or flagstone. It’s also a great idea to use them as a filler spreading over rocks and between some bigger plants to build a green carpet under small ferns, for instance.

Thyme Leaf Speedwell is drought resistant and tolerant, so that it would grow best in an area with full sun and well-drained soil. For flowering, keep the water supply to a minimum and ensure adequate sun exposure.

Another amazing quality of this plant is its deer and rabbit resistance.

Scotch Moss (Sagina subulata)

scotch moss

It might not look like it, but Scotch moss is strong enough to resist foot traffic. When you step on this golden moss, it bounces.

You can use Scotch moss as a lawn replacement in small backyards, and it would be wonderful for your rock gardens and garden paths. This perennial herbaceous plant’s beautiful, dense moss-like foliage in yellow-green forms a pleasant mat. It certainly looks great around stepping stones and walkways.

In the spring, Scotch moss produces a lovely coat of small, translucent white flowers.

Keep This In Mind When Planting Walkable Ground Covers

While most groundcovers are designed to be stepped on, others are more resilient than others—and even regular grass can begin to thin out with lots of foot traffic. A simple fix with any thinning planted area that gets really heavy foot traffic is to place a stepping stone to absorb some of the abuse. A well placed series of stepping stones can both beautify a bed and cure a heavy traffic problem.

REFERENCES

https://vicflora.rbg.vic.gov.au/flora/taxon/a23068b0-61a6-4134-9bba-2268df1e60a6

https://www.ndsu.edu/pubweb/chiwonlee/plsc211/student%20papers/articles11/hbarrett/origins%20of%20hens%20and%20chicks.html

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/portulaca-grandiflora/

https://garden.org/plants/view/699166/Creeping-Gold-Buttons-Cotula-Tiffindell-Gold/

https://eflora.neocities.org/Lysimachia%20nummularia.html

https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1237.pdf

https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/species/herniaria/glabra/

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/ajuga-reptans/

https://calscape.org/Arctostaphylos-‘Emerald-Carpet’-(Emerald-Carpet-Manzanita)?srchcr=sc5e861163c3211

https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?LatinName=Saponaria+officinalis

https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=e190

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/ophiopogon-japonicus/

https://carnegiemuseums.org/magazine-archive/1997/mayjun/dept4.htm

https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/species/Fragaria/virginiana/

https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?latinname=Mentha+requienii

www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=c268

www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=287425

www.pnwplants.wsu.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=214

https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/ground-cover-veronicas/

Best Ground Cover Plants to Prevent Weeds

One of the most helpful general rules of landscaping is that if you plant enough desirable plants, there won’t be room for the undesirable plants to grow. Using beautiful plants to choke out the unwanted weeds in your gardens is a great way to avoid hours of weed pulling and harmful chemical applications.

Vigorously growing groundcover plants are great for choking out weeds. They will add beauty to your outdoor space while being low-maintenance and beneficial in preventing weeds. Some of these ground covers are edible too, which is always nice for your cooking needs!

If you have a spot in your landscape with a weed problem, consider getting these low-growing, usually mat-forming plants. All of these plants have one thing in common; they grow densely enough to help prevent weed growth. Another plus is that these plants can often survive in places where other plants can’t. Using hardy ground covers for weed control might just be the best (and one of the easiest) things that you can do for your yard.

Be aware that vigorous growth and the ability to thrive in many varied environments will often cause a plant to be labelled as invasive, so use these plants carefully in your garden and pay attention to their growth habits so that they don’t overtake areas with more delicate plants.

Here is a list of plants that work great for choking out weeds

Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis)

lily of the valley

Lily of the Valley is usually planted in gardens because of its fragrant flowers and ability to cover the ground in shady places. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the Award of Garden Merit.

Lily of the Valley serves as a weed-suppressant and a beautiful sight with adorable white bells hanging from long green stems. This delicately scented perennial spreads quickly, so keep it in check by planting it in well maintained areas such as along walkways and in bordered beds. It likes to be in the shade, although it can tolerate some sunlight.

If humans or animals eat Convallaria majalis, it’s extremely poisonous, due to the high concentration of cardiac glycosides (cardenolides).

Many gardeners would criticize and worry about this plant, claiming that it is invasive. This is correct in a poor location, but it is especially useful in places where nothing else can grow.

Creeping Phlox (Phlox Subulata)

Creeping Phlox

Carpets of Creeping Phlox in your yard can suppress weeds, especially on slopes that are difficult to mow. This plant is a resilient, reliable groundcover plant that’s common in rock gardens. Many phlox species and cultivars have a mild sweet smell.

These plants are cultivated for their prolific flowering; thus, if you have Phlox in your garden, butterflies will be present there too.

Some species are shrouded in flowers when in bloom, making it difficult to see any leaves. Almost all cultivars and wild species flower in the cool color spectrum, which includes white, purple, pink, magenta, blue, and purple.

Since creeping Phlox is evergreen, it’s suitable for thick groundcover or adorning stones and walls. While Phlox prefers damp, well-drained soils, it can adapt pretty well.

Tufted Creeping Phlox (Phlox Stolonifera)

Phlox Stolonifera thrives in moist, shady environments, where it successfully suppresses weed invasion.

This North American-native herbaceous perennial produces tiny pale pink or white flowers in the spring and has evergreen needle-like leaves. They don’t have the central band of color that the related Phlox subulata flowers have. Stolons or rooting runners are the reason for the specific epithet.

This groundcover is ideal for a shade garden, for use as butterfly nectar plants, or as part of a mass planting or grouping. Partially shaded woodlands or gardens with moist, well-drained soil will be the best for Phlox stolonifera. Its showy blooms make Phlox stolonifera a good option for cottage gardens, rock gardens, and low-maintenance plantings.

Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis)

creeping juniper

The combination of Creeping junipers’ horizontally spreading roots and their dense growth form a thick mat that can keep weeds from getting through.

Creeping juniper is a slow-growing plant. It likes direct sunlight, tolerates drought, and can live in poor, dry soil. It adapts pretty well, so you can take advantage of it by planting in places you don’t have time to maintain! For instance, this plant is suitable for xeriscaping.

Creeping junipers are also useful for preventing soil erosion on slopes and hillsides. Creeping Juniper’s growth rate and plant size is linked to climate and site conditions. Without adequate sunlight, the foliage will be thin and wont do a very good job of limiting the weed growth.

Greek Yarrow (Achillea ageratifolia)

greek yarrow

Greek Yarrow’s genus name, “Achillea,” originates from Achilles, the Greek war hero during the Trojan War who is said to have found it and used it to stop the flow of blood from his soldiers’ wounds.

The silvery, silky-textured foliage of Greek Yarrow forms a thick carpet that makes a tight groundcover. It’s a fantastic little evergreen weed suppressor (or, in this case, ever-grey). Over a blanket of silvery leaves, this tough groundcover grows pure white button daisy flowers that would look great with other flowers in your garden!

Greek yarrow blooms in the spring and produces buttons all summer and into the fall. This hardy little groundcover comes from the rough mountains of northern Greece, which are dry and hot. Once it’s established, it has great heat and drought tolerance. It can also live in low-quality, sandy, or rocky soils, which is where it thrives. It is also a perfect fit for windy gardens, especially near the beach!

Silver Mound (Artemisia schmidtiana)

silver mound

The beautiful Artemisia schmidtiana is suitable as a stretching border for the flower bed, especially if you place it around your pathways or your perennial garden. Its beautiful, hairy silvery leaves stand out by making a nice contrast to all your vibrant green plants.

You will like that even in the hottest summers, the silky, sensitive foliage maintains its fine form and color. Who doesn’t want a drought-resistant plant that thrives in both dry and moist soil?

This particular plant species, also known as silver mound wormwood, is a small one. When distributed among big, thriving summer blooms, it acts as a hardy ground cover (grows only up to 14 inches), blocking out weeds which is always a good thing. Plus, its deer and rabbit resistance mean it’s a valuable mat-forming plant to have in your landscape.

Creeping Thyme (Thermus serpyllum)

creeping thyme

Aside from adding beauty to your landscape, Creeping Thyme forms a dense mat that chokes out weeds quite effectively. In late spring, Creeping Thyme’s short mats get shrouded in tiny white or purple flowers, making it a pollinator’s paradise.

This hardy perennial spreads quickly, is cold-hardy, flourishes in full sun can grow even in poor quality soil, and, once established, is drought resistant. You can also cut some leaves to use for your food prep!

When crushed or extracted for teas or tinctures, creeping thyme, like other thyme varieties, has a taste and fragrance similar to mint. It is a species of the mint family Lamiaceae, after all.

An even more interesting thing about creeping thyme is that considering its appealing scent, it is deer resistant, rendering it an excellent landscape choice in places with lots of deer. Creeping thyme can also tolerate being tromped on, making it a great option for planting in areas with a lot of foot traffic.

Dead Nettle (Lamium purpureum)

dead nettle

Lamium, or dead nettle, is a small perennial with a distinct appearance: square stem, silvery leaves, and purple, pink, or white flowers. It is a member of the mint family, native to temperate western Asia, Europe, and North Africa.

It’s called “deadnettle” since its leaves look like that of stinging nettles except without the sting (hence “dead”). Zones 3–8 are suitable for this herbaceous plant.

This low creeper likes to be in the shade, although it can handle some sunlight. It’s a good idea to use this plant as a groundcover in shaded places if you don’t mind it spreading rapidly to cover huge areas. It is effective in hiding deteriorating bulb foliage and choking out many weeds.

Creeping Jenny / Moneywort (Lysimachia nummularia)

creeping jenny

Creeping Jenny is a tough ground cover that thrives in zones 3 through 9. It likes moist environments. Although it can survive in part shade, it is best grown in full sun for the richest color.

It has round, penny-sized, shiny leaves and pretty yellow blooms on lengthy, trailing stems. Creeping Jenny rapidly occupies a broad area since it roots freely, the stems readily branch and establish mats, so it does a great job of choking out weeds.

This plant can definitely be invasive.

You can get Creeping Jenny to encircle your pond, flow down a wall, or surround a path. In mixed container gardens, it also works well as a spiller. Creeping jenny is flood tolerant, and it can survive in almost any environment: full sun, part shade, or even full shade, which will make you love it even more.

Dragon’s Blood Sedum (Sedum spurium)

dragons blood sedum

Dragon’s Blood Sedum is a trailing, succulent mat of red-outlined dark green leaves and showy pink or red flowers in the summer. Other names for the tough Sedum spurium plant are Caucasian Stonecrop, Schorbuser Blut, and Two-row Stonecrop.

Like Creeping Jenny, Dragon’s Blood Sedum spreads quickly. That’s due to its freely rooting, ropy stems. When this ground cover is healthy, happy, and sufficiently dense, it’s powerful enough to suppress weeds, but it’s not an invasive plant.

It doesn’t want to be in the shade since it can’t deal with plants that rise taller and shade the soil.

Dragon’s Blood sedum plants die down during the winter, as signified by the leaves turning maroon. But, they come back with vitality in the spring, which will show in the bright green leaves. Just the leaves at the ends of the stems are fully evergreen in most regions. As the summer progresses, fresh sprouts begin to grow, filling certain sunny parts of your landscape with poor soil.

When grown alone or in combination with other spreading sedums, Dragon’s Blood sedum occupies the spaces between paths, traces down walls, and blankets rock gardens.

Creeping Mazus (Mazus reptans)

ATTRIBUTION: SB Johnny, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

– Mazus reptans, also referred to as “creeping mazus” or simply “mazus”, is another low-growing perennial groundcover that can suppress weeds. It grows best in partial shade but will still survive in completely shaded areas as well. It is hardy in Zones 4-9. Creeping mazus can easily develop into a closely packed, ground-hugging mat of brightly colored, green foliage with beautiful purple-blue flowers (during summer). This ground cover would be an outstanding choice in limited spaces, such as in rock gardens or in the gaps between stepping stones. Keep Mazus hydrated when it’s hot outside. The ideal soil conditions for mazus is well-draining, moist, rich soil.

Creeping Raspberry (Rubus Hayata-koidzumii or Rubus calycinoides)

The original uploader was J.smith at English Wikipedia.(Original text: en:user:J.smith), CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

Do you want a lovely plant for your rock garden or something to replace your lawn? How about a low-maintenance ground cover?

Creeping Raspberry is a wonderful and attractive ground cover that is naturally hardy, resilient, and adaptable. It has basic requirements and is well worth cultivating in your garden.

Creeping Raspberry is a part of the Rosaceae family. It makes a dense mat of three-lobed leaves on lengthy, cane-like stems, which provide an interesting ground cover. This plant is native to Taiwan, where it thrives at high altitudes.

The creeping raspberry is a kind of evergreen plant, with the leaves having a bronzy underside and take on a rusty-looking shade in the winter. It yields white flowers in the summer, followed by eye-catching vibrant orange-colored fruits.

You may use it as a flowing decor in a hanging basket indoors, in addition to using it as a ground cover and weed-suppressant in your yard.

Dianthus

dianthus

If your landscape looks a little dull and you want a splash of color, Dianthus would be a fabulous addition as a ground cover.

Dianthus plants exist in a wide range of sizes and structures, from very small variants that form a dense, compact cluster of leaves and flowers to big species that reach up to three feet tall with practically no base foliage.

Typically, Dianthus are mat-forming plants with very close leaf spreading. This hardy, cold- and drought-tolerant ground cover can withstand some salt, and deer will stay away from it.

You may use it for everything from edging, slopes, rock gardens, pathways, and patios. The main identifier of Dianthus flowers are five petals, usually with frilled edges, and are pale to rich pink (most species). There are so many wonderful species (about 300) of this flowering plant you can mix and match for your garden!

Keep in mind that these plants will flower more with more sunlight and well-draining soil. It would help if you also deadheaded to encourage beautiful fresh growth.

Red Creeping Thyme (Thymus praecox coccineus)

Agnieszka Kwiecień, Nova, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Red Creeping Thyme is a heat- and drought-tolerant ground cover that thrives in zones 3 to 9. It prefers full sunlight and grows barely two to four inches tall, making it an ideal ground cover.

It’s also deer-resistant. In spring, red creeping thyme gives beautiful, dark green color to your landscape, but it looks the best in the summer when it blooms in stunningly deep magenta-red flowers. It also attracts butterflies and repels deer. But the best part is it chokes out the weeds completely since it makes a dense, flat mat.

It’s best to plant it between stepping stones since it releases a pleasant smell when you walk on it. Plant it along wall surfaces, in edges, and other hard-to-weed spots in your landscape.

Stonecrop (Sedum)

stonecrop

Stonecrop (also referred to as sedum or orpine) plants all have a rosette pattern, and the majority of them grow a flower that is kept over the base foliage.

The leaves are quite glossy and thick. Stonecrop makes an excellent ground cover because it’s dense, it adapts to varying temperatures, and it’s simple to care for. These plants also don’t grow very tall or quickly, so there’s no need to be concerned about them being invasive.

Also, you’ll rarely encounter pest problems with them, and they are disease-resistant. Certainly, planting a stonecrop is a great idea for a beginner gardener. They can be grown both indoors and outdoors in sunny, warm areas. The stonecrop plant is ideal for use in container gardens, rockeries, pathways, and perennial borders.

Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum tectorum)

hens and chicks

Hens and chicks plants get their name from the rosette form and the fact that they create a lot of babies.

Growing Hens and chicks in a rockery or a dry, nutritionally lacking area where other plants can’t survive is a smart idea. Sempervivum tectorum indeed has a remarkable tolerance for bad soil and harsh environments. This alpine or rock garden plant stores water in its thick and fleshy leaves; thus many gardeners like it as a ground cover for dry areas.

An underground runner connects the mother plant to the chicks (babies). Hens and Chicks make great container plants on both the inside and outside of the house.

Sempervivum comes in about forty different varieties. But even though hens and chicks come in a wide range of colors, they are most commonly seen in green, red, purple, or a mixture of these colors. The hens and chicks have a lovely, distinct look that brings variety to the garden, plus they’re hardy enough to withstand the harsh winters. Most are zone 3 hardy and can withstand temperatures as high as that of zone 9.

To keep the roots from rotting, place them in dry, well-drained sandy or gravelly soil. Did you know? Sempervivum was once placed on rooftops in Europe for various purposes, including trying to ward off lightning and fire, keeping slates in place, and supplying quick salad food in the winter.

Catmint (Nepeta mussinii)

catmint

Most people are unsure about the distinction between catmint and catnip. Although they are essentially the same plant with much of the same characteristics, there are differences between the two. In the garden, catnip (Nepeta cataria) has a lower aesthetic appeal than catmint (Nepeta mussinii).

Catmint is a fragrant herb that can be found in many gardens. Among mounds of grey-green foliage, it grows clusters of lavender-blue flowers. This easy-to-grow plant has a fascinating background when it comes to its different landscape applications.

Catmint is great for edging or mass planting, and it works well as an insect deterrent near your edible crops. Catmint can live in full sun or part shade, as long as the soil is decent and well-drained. They will also tolerate heat and drought, which makes them ideal for dry gardens.

You can use fresh, frozen, or dried catmint for cooking purposes. As the flowers start to bloom, harvest the top leaves, stems, and flowers if you like. You can add its shoots and leaves to your soups!

‘Gro-Low’ sumac (Rhus aromatica ‘Gro-Low’)

Photo by David J. Stang, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Gro-Low sumac was favored by growers for its dwarf habit, making it ideal as a ground cover. It lives in poor, dry soil and can grow in intense sunlight or heavy shade—it just needs decent drainage.

The spreading branches take root where they come into contact with the earth, which aids in forming a thick weed-controlling mat. It’s a complete autumn splendor. That alone is good enough to make it into your garden!

Plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides)

plumbago

Plumbago or leadwort is a spreading plant that combines all of the best qualities of a groundcover without being unpleasant and invasive. Its name is derived from the Latin word plumbum, meaning “lead.” The herb was believed to be a treatment for lead poisoning back in the first century AD.

Although it may not be a cure for lead poisoning, it is an excellent groundcover. Plumbago is loved for its pretty blue or white flower clusters that grow from summer to fall. You’ll also love it because it’s a wiry, mat-forming perennial with rhizomes that extend to establish a beautiful ground cover.

Its mounding growth habit makes it ideal for landscape beds, particularly in the shade. Moreover, plumbago may be pruned to shape an informal hedge or used to create a beautiful formal hedge. It would finally grow to shrub size if it didn’t freeze, but winter usually prunes it to the ground, making it low-maintenance.

Greek Oregano (Origanum vulgare ssp. hirtum)

oregano

If you want to smell Italian or Greek cuisine whenever you go by a section of the garden, a Greek oregano ground cover will deliver that one-of-a-kind feeling. Groundcover oregano has that scent when crushed or stepped on that sends you longing for delicious Mediterranean food.

Aside from its smell, its positives are: it needs very little care, prevents weeds, looks wonderful, draws in insects, thrives in hot and dry areas, and keeps in moisture. It would help if you did some things to force ground cover oregano into staying that way because it is a naturally tall herb. Start when the plants are young: nip them back to within two inches from the ground. The plant will be encouraged to grow outward instead of upward as a result of this. Plants will eventually blend to form a Greek oregano groundcover.

To keep this up, give it a limited supply of water and cut off some height a couple of times (or even once) in its growing season. You’ll only need to care for your Greek oregano just a few times a year after it’s established. And, if you want to use oregano for cooking, harvest whenever the stems start to grow tall and are about to flower. This is when the leaves are full of their amazing essence and flavor.

One last thing: according to some test-tube studies, oregano and oregano oil are rich in antioxidants. If this isn’t a good enough reason to add it to your landscape (aside from keeping away weeds), I don’t know what is.

Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina)

lambs ear

The ground cover of Stachys byzantina is fantastic for weed control. It’s a thick, low-growing herb that can quickly spread in a garden bed if given the proper care, so it’s ideal for filling in gaps in your borders and keeping weeds away. And because it’s a low-growing plant, you can plant lamb’s ears on the garden border.

The wooly feel and velvety soft texture of Lamb’s Ears’ leaves will appeal to children. Aside from the leaf shape’s resemblance to a lamb’s ear, the color is silvery grey to a faint green. The plant is a perennial evergreen, although it can die back and look worn out throughout the winter months, and it will regrow in spring.

Lamb’s ears can withstand chilly temperatures in zones 4 through 8. Unless you have lots of midday shade in your yard, extreme heat in the warmer areas can make growing it a problem.

FAQs

When will the ground covers start to choke out weeds?
Ground covers will take up to a couple of years to completely establish and become dense enough to choke out most undesirable weeds, according to the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension. It will take a little bit longer for higher altitudes.

You should remove whatever weeds that emerge as soon as possible. To minimize massive damage, do not spray herbicides on your ground cover.

Can a weed-suppressing ground cover take the place of my lawn?
You can use any of these ground cover plants as a lawn replacement, as long as you meet the plant’s soil and sunlight (or shade) requirements. Any of these weed suppressing plants, especially those that don’t require lots of water, would be better than a lawn when it comes to upkeep.

REFERENCES

https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf

https://ucanr.edu/sites/poisonous_safe_plants/Toxic_Plants_by_common_Name_659/

https://csuvth.colostate.edu/poisonous_plants/Plants/Details/123

https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/phlox/

https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/page/470454#page/155/mode/1up

www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=285438

https://www.jstor.org/stable/1930514?seq=1

https://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/organics/xeriscaping

https://scholarworks.montana.edu/xmlui/handle/1/5708

https://cms.business-services.upenn.edu/morrisarboretum-blog/411-plant-names-tell-their-stories-achilles-healing-herb-achillea-yarrow.html

https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Artemisia+schmidtiana

www.theplantlist.org/tpl1.1/record/kew-205442

https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/spotted-deadnettle-lamium-maculatum/

https://www.uaex.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/moneywort-6-24-05.aspx

www.illinoiswildflowers.info/weeds/plants/moneywort.htm

https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/The-contribution-of-persistent-soil-seed-banks-and-V%C3%A9crin-Gr%C3%A9villiot/ae5cc5e6f76f30ff01e86b093bc4b06b2389f0d8

https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/forb/lysnum/all.html

https://www.uaex.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/dragonsblood-sedum-9-12-08.aspx

https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=e190

https://archive.org/details/perennialgroundc0000mack/page/n9/mode/2up

https://www.newworldencyclopedia.org/entry/Carnation

https://extension.psu.edu/to-deadhead-or-not-your-final-answer-is

http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=254207

https://www.britannica.com/plant/sedum

www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=b711

https://advances.sciencemag.org/content/6/20/eaba0721

https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/plumbago-a-true-blue-accent-in-the-sunny-border/

www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=285165

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8933203/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24629960/

https://www.alabamawildlife.org/oc-plant-id-lambs-ear/

https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/ground-covers-and-rock-garden-plants-for-mountain-communities-7-413/

Best Plants To Plant in Front of Your House

People have historically used foundation plantings to conceal the foundations of older homes. Now-a-days, planting a row of bushes to mark the foundation doesn’t seem to be as popular or prominent as it once was.

However, landscaping experts say that front-yard plantings are utilized to enhance the look of a property, integrate it into its surroundings, and provide an appealing entry. Real estate professionals will tell you that curb appeal makes a huge difference when it comes time to sell your house.

Putting the right bushes in front of your house can make all the difference. It can turn your dull landscape into something more inviting!

Why Should You Put Plants in Your Front Yard?


Without some lovely front yard plantings, a house doesn’t appear “complete.” It would seem like something is lacking in your front yard.

There are several apparent and practical advantages to growing foundation plants (front-of-house plants). Low-growing bushes conceal the foundations of the property, making a seamless connection from garden to home.

The correct foundation plants may make your home more beautiful and appealing, as well as improve its worth. When people see your house from the street, they’ll notice how it stands out!

Front-of-House or Foundation Plants: What to Look For

front yard flowering bushes


Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei), boxwood (Buxus spp.), holly (Ilex), and rhododendrons are all good low-maintenance bushes to use as front-of-yard plants. The foliage of these short, bushy evergreen shrubs lasts all year. Plants can be grown in full sun or moderate shade. They’re drought-resistant and don’t get too big.

Foundation plantings should include low-growing shrubs that are appealing all year. These bushes are great since they will not obstruct your view out the window. When picking plants for your front yard, keep in mind how much sun it gets—some foundation plantings require full sun, while others thrive in the shadow.

Drought-tolerant plants are also great for planting in front of the house. Allowing the soil to dry between waterings helps to keep your home area dry. That’s why planting short bushes three feet apart is a smart idea. Air movement around plants near your foundation also aids in keeping moisture from entering your home.

Try not to plant shrubs or small trees with invasive roots since they might damage your home’s foundation. Plant these bigger bushes at least five feet away from your house.

Excellent Front Yard Landscaping Plants

Here are some fantastic front yard landscaping bushes to dress up your area! You have various choices, whether you like flowers, unique growth habits, or stunning seasonal colors.

Hydrangea

beautiful blue hydrangea

Hydrangeas are excellent front-of-house landscaping plants because of their low-maintenance demands and spectacular bloom clusters throughout the summer.

Did you know that a hydrangea bloom’s color can be changed by tweaking the soil’s pH level?

Hydrangeas are deciduous decorative foundation shrubs with enormous globular flower clusters. They are big blooming shrubs that reach 3 to 5 feet. Hydrangeas come in various sizes and have compact, short growth, making them excellent for smaller areas and the front yard.

Hydrangeas are low-maintenance landscaping bushes with moderate water requirements and no soil preferences. Although hydrangea plants need some shade and protection, certain hydrangea blossoms thrive in full sun. The only maintenance these bushes require is the removal of wasted blooms.

Hydrangea blooms flourish for several weeks in the summer and come in various colors: lavender, blue, pink, white, green, purple, and red. USDA zones 3–9 are favorable for most hydrangea varieties.

Plant a modest type of easy-to-care-for hydrangea shrub in front of the home as an accent blooming plant, or grow them in a row to make a beautiful hedge. In addition, the lovely big blossoms look beautiful in cut flower floral arrangements.

Some of the best hydrangea bushes for foundation planting in the front yard are:

  • Hydrangea paniculata ‘Little Lime.’ – (also known as Panicle hydrangea) is a small dwarf shrub for the front of the home that grows no more than 5 feet tall. Summer brings lime green flowers that become pink as they develop. This plant is ideal for pots and bulk plantings. If you like beautiful cut flowers, this plant is a great choice.
  • Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Nikko Blue.’ – One of the most favored mophead hydrangea bushes for foundation planting is ‘Nikko Blue.’ You will like its large blue inflorescences, massive green foliage, and the bush’s overall rounded form. Flower buds develop on the growth from the previous year. Flowers in acidic soils are blue, whereas those in alkaline soils are pink. This hydrangea shrub reaches a height and width of 4 – 6 feet (1.2 – 1.8 meters) and blooms throughout the summer. It accepts coastal conditions but is only hardy to zone 6 in the winter.
  • Mountain Hydrangea (Hydrangea Serrata) – The mountain hydrangea has long been a close second to the more well-known and praised mophead hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla). Mountain Hydrangea is a smaller hydrangea variety with beautiful light blue or light pink blooms and rich green leaves. Ideal for use as a colorful bush border or in front of the home. It may reach a height of 2 – 4 feet (0.6 – 1.2 meters) and the same width.
  • Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Endless Summer Bloomstruck.’ – A tough mophead hydrangea with rounded growth characteristics and two-toned pink or lilac blooms. It may reach a height of 3–4 feet (1–1.2 meters) and a width of up to 5 feet (1.5 meters). Hydrangeas of the Endless Summer series are a selection of bigleaf Hydrangeas. Bigleaf Hydrangeas bloom predominantly on last year’s growth, often known as “old wood.” You should never trim Bigleaf Hydrangeas in the late summer or fall because of this. Removing last year’s growth essentially eliminates the bloom buds for the following season. It’s best to wait until middle to late spring to prune so you can easily spot the winter-damaged canes.
  • Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ – This straight species is endemic to the eastern United States, specifically in Anna, Illinois. The plant’s name ‘Annabelle’ comes from the area’s women or ‘belles.’ This front-of-house bush produces big (8-12 inches) brilliant white blooms—stunning and long-lasting. The tight, rounded growth habit of ‘Annabelle’ hydrangea renders it excellent for foundation planting. This low-maintenance landscape shrub grows 3–5 feet (1–1.5 meters) high and 4–6 feet (1.2–1.8 meters) broad.

Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)

hibiscus

Hibiscus syriacus is a member of the Malvaceae family of plants. This flowering plant is originally from south-central and southeast China, although it has spread far over Asia.

The Rose of Sharon (Korean: mugunghwa) is the national flower of South Korea!

You should try the Rose of Sharon shrubs, specifically the Satin and Chiffon series, if you want a hardy, deciduous shrub that flowers for months yet is easy to maintain. Both kinds grow rapidly, don’t need to be pruned, and generate almost no seeds so that they won’t multiply all over the garden.

Anemone-shaped flowers in purple, pink, white, or blue adorn the Chiffon variants. Meanwhile, Satin variants have solitary pink, purple, or blue blooms with a deep red eye.

Rose of Sharon exists in a variety of sizes, most of which are pretty big. Satin and Chiffon variants reach a height of 8-12 feet and are typically taller than broad. As a result, they’re ideal for hedging, screening, or planting near a tall, bare wall where a splash of color will change everything.

Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum x superbum)

Daisies

The Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum x superbum) is a classic herbaceous perennial with a conspicuous and stunning flower show and lovely, rich dark green foliage that provides weeks of brilliance beginning in early to mid-summer.

Because of the abundance of cultivars displaying varying flower sizes and types, levels of compactness, and bloom duration, there is a Shasta Daisy for just about every garden. Shasta Daisy plants like moist, well-drained, rich soil.

  • Leucanthemum × superbum ‘Becky.’ – ‘Becky’ grows taller than most other Shasta varieties, reaching 3-4′ high. An abundance of 4-inch sized flowers of white petals with yellow centers occurs from mid-summer to early fall. Another thing you’ll like about Shasta Daisy’s stiff stems is that they don’t require staking. These plants can reach a height of 4 feet and a width of 3 feet. It would look lovely planted with ‘Snow Lady,’ a shorter variety that blooms sooner, for a more extended display of color. ‘Becky’s cut flowers are of exceptional quality. This plant thrives in Hardiness Zones 4-9.
  • Leucanthemum ‘Crazy Daisy’ – ‘Crazy Daisy’ will stand out in front of your house with its semi-double and double cream-white blooms with yellow centers. This bush will look particularly lovely in perennial borders and beds. Plant Crazy Daisy if you want cuts that are strong and erect and are taller than 26 inches. Crazy Daisy survives in hardiness zones 4 to 9. This bush will attract lots of butterflies, but it is resistant to deer and rabbits.
  • Leucanthemum ‘Banana Cream’ – ‘Banana Cream’ produces large 4-5″ lemon yellow blooms with a creamy white center. In the summer, the bloom period is extended. This variety was a mix between ‘Broadway Lights’ and ‘Sunny Side Up.’ Banana Cream is a prolific grower with dark green, disease-resistant leaves. It looks great in containers or the garden, and it grows to approximately 18 inches. This plant is hardy in zones 5-9.
  • Leucanthemum ‘Brightside’ – This plant is Becky’s seed strain. From late spring until summer, huge, pure white daisies bloom. Taller than 3 feet and hardy in zones 5-9. This bush will undoubtedly draw in all the butterflies! It can use some shade, especially in hot summer regions or when planted in relatively dry soils. To encourage more bloom, remove dead flower heads. To promote vitality, separate clumps as needed (every couple of years).
  • Leucanthemum ‘GoldFinch’ – If you like yellow, you’ll like this flowering bush! ‘GoldFinch’ is as yellow as a Shasta Daisy can get. It’s a darker yellow than ‘Banana Cream,’ plus its flowers will last longer. This front yard bush is a true treasure. With a lengthy flowering time, compact form, with beautiful semi-double blooms that fade from brilliant lemon yellow to ivory white over time. Its height can get up to 2 ft (90 cm). It is hardy in zones 5-8.
  • Leucanthemum ‘Victorian Secret’ – Even under high heat, this neat, compact cultivar has gently ruffled long-lasting blooms without the smell! Taller than 14 in (35 cm). Hardiness zones 5 to 9 are suited for this plant, blooming in June, July, and August.

Cavatine Dwarf Japanese Pieris (Pieris japonica ‘Cavatine’)

cavatine

Pieris japonica ‘Cavatine’ is a tiny, flowering shrub with evergreen leaves. The ‘Cavatine’ plant is an excellent front yard plant that may reach a height of 2 feet (0.6 m). The cream-white blooms provide a splash of color to the dark green background. This low informal hedge plant is also known as the lily-of-the-valley shrub.

In your front yard, dwarf ‘Cavatine’ bushes thrive in direct sunlight or part shade. They are drought-tolerant plants. Japanese Pieris foundation plants thrive in zones 6–8.

Pieris spp., similar to rhododendrons, contain grayanotoxins I, II, and III (polyhydroxylated diterpenes). These chemicals latch to sodium channels in the heart, skeletal muscle, and nerve cells, keeping them depolarized. In cows and goats, the hazardous dosage of the green plant is 0.2-0.6 percent of the animal’s weight.

Creeping Gardenia

gardenia

Creeping gardenia is a low-growing bush that grows 2 feet tall and 2-3 feet broad. It blooms with beautiful, scented white blossoms in July. Sun exposure ranges from moderate to full.

A study found that peat moss is the best growing medium for Creeping Gardenia.

If you want a taller shrub, Frost Proof is another wonderful Gardenia. It reaches a height of around 5 feet.

Boxwood (Buxus) Shrub – A Great Foundation Plant

buxus

You will find Buxaceae species in the tropics, subtropics, and temperate zones all over the world.

Low-growing, dense boxwood shrubs are excellent for foundation planting for your front yard.
Boxwood shrubs naturally come from Europe and Asia. These evergreen landscaping plants have many branches and a bunch of uses, especially for the front area of your house.

Boxwood is a relatively easy-to-maintain foundation plant that offers lush, thick evergreen leaves and bushy growth. These low-maintenance shrubs are simple to shape, and most varieties don’t go much taller than 3 or 4 feet.

Numerous kinds of boxwood may be grown in full sun, moderate shade, or full shade. Zones 5–9 are ideal for the hedge plants. Boxwoods flourish on well-draining soil and are drought resistant in most cases.

Boxwood does not do well in extreme heat and cold. They are particularly vulnerable to foliar desiccation as a result of the dry winter air. A reddish-orange to brown color shift anywhere near the midrib or inner section of the leaf is a common sign of winter damage on boxwood.

Some of the nicest boxwood shrubs for planting in your front yard are as follows:

  • Common Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’) – The common boxwood (Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’) is an excellent choice for foundation planting. The petite boxwood has evergreen foliage and is drought resistant, growing to a height of 2 to 3 feet (0.6 – 1 m). It thrives in bright sunlight to partial shade and uniformly moist, well-drained loamy soil. It can thrive in various soil types and even in full shade, but it will be less prolific and have fewer leaves than if planted in ideal conditions. Plant common boxwood for traditional short hedges, shade, sun ground cover, or a container doorway plant.
  • Green Beauty Japanese Boxwood (Buxus microphylla var. japonica) – The glossy lanceolate leaves of the ‘Green Beauty’ boxwood have rich foliage. This trouble-free compact foundation shrub thrives in both the sun and the shade. Zones 6–9 are ideal for cultivating this plant.
  • Boxwood ‘Winter Gem’ (Buxus microphylla ‘Winter Gem’) – ‘Winter Gem,’ or Japanese Boxwood, is native to China and Japan. It is a rounded foundation plant that grows up to 4 feet tall (1.2 m). The boxwood ‘Winter Gem’ has tiny glossy green leaves that stay green all year. Zones 6–8 are appropriate for this plant.
  • English Boxwood ‘Dee Runk’ (Buxus sempervirens) – This is a perfect corner plant or entrance plant because it is a tall boxwood shrub. Buxus sempervirens are mainly cultivated for aesthetic purposes. The evergreen shrub has a vertical columnar growth and reaches about 7 feet (2 meters). All-year-round color for your front yard is provided by ‘Dee Runk’ boxwoods. And if you want to make a foundation planting hedge, you can easily shape this quickly growing plant. Zones 6–8 are acceptable for the English boxwood ‘Dee Runk.’
  • Green Pillow Boxwood – The ‘Green Pillow’ boxwood is a relatively small broadleaf shrub that makes a good foundation plant. The thick shrub has the appearance of a pincushion pillow. This boxwood grows up to a foot tall as a foundation plant and survives in zones 5–8.
  • Buxus ‘Green Gem’ – Buxus ‘Green Gem’ is a tiny landscape shrub with a circular mound of small, oval, dark green foliage. Low hedges are made possible by the compact growth habit of this bush. However, keep in mind that Buxus ‘Green Gem’ is one of the cultivars prone to boxwood blight, identifiable as black leaf spots, black stem lesions, and defoliation.

Redosier Dogwood (Cornus sericea)

dogwood shrub

This species, often referred to as red willow, is a deciduous shrub with rich red stems that make it attractive even after losing its foliage. The Latin-specific epithet sericea (meaning: silky) accurately describes the soft texture of the plant’s foliage.

It has white blooms in late spring, which are succeeded by tiny white berries that adorn it in late summer and fall, and are consumed by no less than 18 bird species, including bobwhite quail and ruffed grouse.

Redosier dogwood grows quickly, reaching heights of seven to nine feet when fully grown. Pruning it once a year is adequate, although cutting it down to ground level helps keep the vivid red of its younger stems. Its fibrous root structure helps to prevent erosion.

Furthermore, it is resilient and beautiful even when it looks bare in the winter, and it can be propagated by cuttings, making it a low-cost option for sizeable plantings.

Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei) – Fantastic Foundation Plant.

wintercreeper

Wintercreeper bushes (also known as Climbing Euonymus, Japanese Euonymus, Spreading Euonymus, and Wintercreeper Euonymus) have golden yellow and green leaves. They are excellent plants for the front of your house. Wintercreeper cultivars reach a height of 1 to 2 feet (30 – 60 cm), making them suitable for covering foundations, edging, ground cover, and garden borders. These cold-hardy, brilliantly colored plants thrive in both the shade and the sun.

You will find wintercreeper bushes in zones 5 through 9. Consult with your state before planting them near your foundation, as they are deemed invasive in certain regions.

For foundation planting, here are several wintercreeper shrubs to consider:

  • Euonymus fortunei ‘Moonshadow.’ – In bright or shady front yards, the lush yellow and green foliage offers magnificent foundation cover. The ‘Moonshadow’ wintercreeper reaches a height of 3 feet (1 meter) and a spread of 5 feet (1.5 meters).
  • Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold.’ – With its golden and vivid green leaves, this wintercreeper will liven up your front yard. Planting around foundations in shady sections of your yard is wonderful.
  • Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald Gaiety.’ – This low-growing evergreen bush with green and white variegated leaves makes an excellent ground cover. You can use Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald Gaiety’ as a foundation plant, low hedge, or grow along walls in brightly sunlit front yards.

‘Orange Rocket’ Barberry

Tournasol7, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Opening with vivid coral fresh growth and developing into ruby-red leaves that will keep the show running into the fall, this simple to care for ‘Orange Rocket’ Barberry will add a touch of spectacularly colored foliage to your front yard.

This deciduous shrub thrives in USDA Zones 5a to 9b and can withstand full sun to partial shade. It’s an upright bush that grows to be approximately 4-feet tall and 1.5-feet broad when fully grown.

You can certainly liven up space in front of your house with the fantastic colors of this bush! You can use it as a border, hedge, or striking accent plant.

The plant will be drought tolerant once grown and can withstand a wide range of weather conditions. The plant, like other barberries, has small thorns on it. As a result, you may utilize them as a barrier plant as well.

Kaleidoscope Abelia (Abelia x Grandiflora ‘Kaleidoscope’)

Photo by David J. Stang, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Kaleidoscope Abelia is a member of the Caprifoliaceae (honeysuckle) family. It has brightly colored, golden yellow variegated leaves and only grows 2.5 feet tall and 3.5 feet broad.

Kaleidoscope Abelia’s foliage changes as spring give way to summer: the interiors of the leaves stay green and deepen somewhat, while the borders become a golden yellow color. It’s also the time when it blooms. Throughout the plant’s surface, the slightly rosy-tinted buds develop into tubular white flowers.

It can withstand direct sunlight, and Zones 6-9 are perfect for this plant.

Plant in large groups as a front yard fixture for stunning year-round color. What’s nice about this bush is it can survive being planted in containers and spacious beds! You won’t have a problem caring for this plant as long as you keep it in moist, rich, acidic soil with good drainage.

Rhododendron – Front Yard Landscape Foundation Plant

rhododendron

Rhododendrons are evergreen flowering bushes that look great in the front yard. Almost all rhododendron bushes are excellent foundation plants since they reach 2 to 4 feet. Rhododendrons, which are evergreen, are ideal for planting around foundations in full sun or light shade. Rhododendron bushes bloom in the spring and provide beautiful flowers.

But keep in mind that Rhododendron is toxic when ingested. Grayanotoxin, a diterpene present all over the plant (mainly leaves and pollen), causes poisoning when it comes in contact with your food. Risk factors include eating Rhododendron nectar grayanotoxins-contaminated honey and drinking Rhododendron tea.

Have a look at some of the nicest rhododendron shrubs for foundation planting in the front yard:

  • Rhododendron ‘Hino Crimson – The rhododendron ‘Hino Crimson’ is a beautiful blooming plant for your house’s front area. The short bush has glossy evergreen leaves and beautiful dark pink blooms, reaching just 2 to 3 ft. tall. Plant in zones 5–9. Acidic, rich, humusy, moderately moist, well-drained soils in partial shade are ideal for growing this plant. It likes dappled sunlight or shaded open areas. It will also nicely accept morning light with midday shade.
  • Rhododendron ‘April Rose’ – You will undoubtedly love Rhododendron ‘April Rose’ for its cold hardy nature and big, funnel-shaped springtime blooms, which are a little fragrant. It’s a semi-dwarf bush with lovely purplish-red flowers and broad green leaves. In the fall, the elliptical, flat, dark green leaves turn a reddish-brown color. Zones 4-8 are perfect for this front yard plant. It grows 3 to 4 feet (1–1.2 meters) tall.
  • Rhododendron ‘Bow Bells’ – This tiny, broadleaf evergreen shrub is coated in beautiful clusters of fragrant pink flowers when in bloom. Throughout the winter, the glossy, dark-green foliage maintains its shade. This plant grows best in the sun to part shade.
  • Dwarf Indica (Gumpo) Azalea (Rhododendron eriocarpum) – This woody, dwarf blooming shrub matures approximately 2 feet tall and is evergreen in most regions. If the soil doesn’t drain properly, full sun can burn the foliage and cause the roots to rot. With good upkeep and a healthy plant in the right area, there should be minimal issues.
  • Rhododendron ‘Blue Tit’ – Blue Tit is a renowned dwarf hybrid plant with a rounded, bushy form. You will enjoy seeing its funnel-shaped, lavender-blue flowers! Expect to see these gorgeous flowers in the middle of April. This plant does well in full sun and partial shade.
  • Rhododendron ‘Dora Amateis’ – Every spring, this stunning tiny shrub blooms with loads of funnel-shaped white flowers. The bushy, low-growing foundation plant thrives in both the shade and the sun. Dora Amateis is well-known for its ability to attract bees. Bees can’t resist its nectar-pollen-rich flowers. Zones 5–8 are suitable for this front yard bush.

Dwarf Yew Shrubs

yew

Dwarf yew shrubs are a popular choice for a front yard, evergreen landscaping bush because of their soft needles and thick growth. Many compact yews grow erect and thrive in clear daylight. Yew dwarf shrubs make beautiful foundation plants, great hedging plants, and decorative border shrubs.

They are usually not prone to insect and disease pests, plus they offer a beautiful, dark green color all year. While their leaves look so much like needles, they are essentially thin, linear-shaped, and flat with a glossy sheen to them. Yew plants seem to be either male or female, with the female producing fleshy, red berry-like seed cones called arils.

Some yews that are good for foundation planting:

  • English Yew (Taxus baccata ‘Repandens’) – This is a low-lying, spreading ornamental foundation plant. English yews can reach a height of 2 to 4 feet and a width of up to 15 feet. This hardy English yew has curving branches and drooping lateral stems that spread widely. It has two levels of long, deep green, sickle-shaped needles, and berries only grow on more mature plants.
  • Anglo-Japanese Yew (Taxus x media ‘Densiformis’) – The Anglo-Japanese yew is a common cross between Japanese yews (Taxus cuspidata) and English yews (Taxus baccata). They’re frequently utilized as foundation plants, specimens, grouped, or hedges when appropriately cut. Early in life, yews are very narrow, but as they grow older, they become broader. They are robust and durable, adaptable to urban areas, and one of the few evergreens that can withstand extremely shady conditions. This yew cultivar has thick foliage made up of glossy green needle-like leaves and grows close to the ground. The bushy yew reaches a height of 3 to 4 feet.
  • Japanese Yew ‘Bright Gold’ (Taxus cuspidata) – This dwarf foundation bush has a spreading growth habit and reaches a height of 4 to 5 feet, although shearing and pruning can keep them at a manageable size. The cultivar’s newly growing needles are golden yellow with green stripes, with the color vibrancy peaking during the spring growth flush and lasting through the winter thanks to late-season cutting. In zones 4–7, the foundation plant thrives in full sun or moderate shade.
  • ‘Densiformis’ yew – The ‘Densiformis’ yew is an excellent option for planting in shaded regions in your front yard or garden. Anglo-Japanese yew has the ideal features for a foundation plant: it’s drought-tolerant, easy to care for, and has evergreen foliage. Anglo-Japanese yews flourish in full sun, moderate shade, and full shade in zones 4–7, making them ideal for growing in front of your house.

Inkberry Foundation Plants (Ilex glabra)

Homer Edward Price, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

For foundation planting, we also like inkberry shrubs like the ‘Shamrock’ (Ilex glabra ‘Shamrock’). Inkberries are native evergreen bushes that produce blackberries in the fall and blooms in the summer. The dense, dark green leaves of the Inkberry ‘Shamrock’ cultivar provide year-round color in your front yard. Plants of the inkberry ‘Shamrock’ variety reach 3 to 4 feet.

Inkberry bushes thrive in both full sun and light shade. The bushy foundation plants thrive in a variety of soil conditions and tolerate damp soils. In zones 4–9, these shrubby, short, low-maintenance plants flourish.

The most significant disadvantage of inkberry holly in the landscape is its propensity for losing lower leaves and becoming exposed at the base. If you start to see your plants exhibit leafless bases, don’t be reluctant to trim them aggressively. In reality, this type is a fire-resistant plant that can withstand being fully chopped down to the ground. You should not perform such drastic pruning every year; rather, do it in late winter, if at all. Pests are rarely a significant issue.

Other inkberry foundation plants include:

  • The ‘Gem Box’ inkberry – This foundation plant, which resembles boxwood, has tiny dark green leaves, compact growth, and can withstand wet soil and bright sunlight. You’ll like having this bush for its nice, neat-looking growth habit, which is a rounded shape. It looks magnificent in the landscape, rich and thick to the ground!
  • Inkberry ‘Strongbox’ – Inkberry ‘Strongbox’ is a dense, low-growing shrub with tiny leaves and lush foliage that can reach a height of 3 feet (1 meter). Like ‘Gem Box,’ ‘Strongbox’ is a desirable bush in your front yard because of its compact form that would always look nice no matter what season. Except that this cultivar is slightly tougher and more disease-resistant.

Red Tip Photinia (Photinia x fraseri)

photinia

Fraser’s Photinia is a big, evergreen bush or small tree that can reach 20 feet in height. After P. serratifolia but before P. glabra, this bush blooms in the middle of spring. This plant is likewise in the middle of the two in terms of size. Many individuals find Fraser Photinia’s fetid flowers repulsive. A new leaf is a vibrant reddish-bronze hue, and you will see reddish buds throughout the year.

This plant can withstand alkalinity, as well as dryness and salt spray. It is susceptible to pests and diseases and is intolerant of damp environments.

Arborvitae Foundation Plants (Thuja)

Thuja

Dwarf arborvitae bushes have lush, evergreen leaves and make excellent foundation plants. The word arborvitae is Latin for “tree of life.” Increased blood pressure and a fever reduction are two effects.

Arborvitaes, especially small ones, thrive in full sun in front of your house. As corner plantings or entry plantings, you can grow larger upright, dense arborvitae trees. Zones 3–7 are suitable for arborvitae bushes.

The following are some of the best arborvitaes to plant around the foundation:

  • Thuja occidentalis ‘Fire Chief’- The thick feathery leaves of this small shrub become golden yellow in the spring. In the fall, it steadily changes into green and red. This arborvitae grows slowly and is ideal for foundation plantings, short hedges, and borders. In zones 5–9, in full sun to part shade, the arborvitae ‘Fire Chief’ grows to a height of 3 to 4 feet.
  • Thuja occidentalis ‘Little Giant’ – The small evergreen species, Thuja occidentalis ‘Little Giant,’ is an excellent choice for foundation plantings, as a specimen or a hedge. The arborvitae features soft green feathery leaves and a compact dome form. Little Giant needs full sunlight to live, and it has to be planted in zones 3-8. It’s a nice bush to have if you want lots of birds in front of your house.
  • Thuja occidentalis ‘Hetz Midget’ – This is a needled evergreen that belongs to the family Cupressaceae. This Thuja is a lovely compact globose shrub with soft, feathery leaves and a flattened crown. If you want a great foundation plant, place this classic low-maintenance arborvitae around the front of your house. This bush will survive in full sun to part shade on typical, moderate moisture, well-drained soils. Although it tolerates a broad range of soils, it likes damp, neutral to alkaline, well-drained loamy soil. And it does not like drought. It thrives in full sun in hot summer climes, but it also loves some moderate afternoon shade.
  • Dwarf Golden Oriental Thuja (Thuja orientalis ‘Aurea Nana’) – This is a miniature evergreen shrub with delicate needle leaves and golden-yellow foliage in flattened sprays. To make it conceal your house’s foundations, plant in sunny or slightly shaded front yards. Grow in full sun on rich, moderately moist, well-drained soils. In hot and dry weather, make sure to water your plants regularly. These plants open up more as they mature. In youth, the scale-like yellowish-green leaves in flat sprays become deeper green as they age. In the winter, the foliage may become a bronze color.

Catmint (Nepeta racemosa)

catmint

Nepeta spp. or catmint is a flowering plant belonging to the Lamiaceae (mint family). This plant is well-known for attracting cats. Want to know why? The compound nepetalactone, a vaporous iridoid that also scares away insects, is responsible for this occurrence.

Catmint bushes give you spikes of tiny blue or purple blooms that look best when clustered together. It resembles a blue-purple cloud touching the ground and is frequently cultivated in huge numbers because of its relaxed nature.

On 24-inch-tall stems that may grow to 3 feet wide, ‘Walker’s Low’ has fragrant blossoms that are a mixture of lavender, blue, and mauve. You’ll see the plant bloom in early summer, and if you deadhead the flushes, they will last until autumn.

It thrives in Hardiness Zones 4-8. The cultivar ‘Blue Wonder’ is excellent if you want small, darker blue flowers and a more compact form; this dwarf, mounding, bushy plant can live in Zones 3–8.

Dwarf Spruce

dwarf spruce

Dwarf spruce bushes provide your front yard with a lot of curb appeal. Moreover, dwarf spruce bushes are easy to care for!

Spruce conifer shrubs are evergreen, low-growing bushes that thrive in bright sunlight. They’re ideal for foundation planting because of their bluish-green hue, needle-like leaves, and widespread growth. Zones 3–8 are suitable for spruce trees and shrubs.

Some of the nicest Dwarf Spruce bushes for planting in front of your house are:

  • Picea pungens ‘Glauca Globosa’ – This little spruce is shown as a globe-shaped, blue-grey-needled, rigid bush in photos. The slowly growing dwarf evergreen will mature to a height of 3 to 4 feet (1 – 1.2 meters).
  • Dwarf Black Spruce Shrub (Picea marina ‘Nana’) – The dwarf black spruce shrub (Picea marina ‘Nana’) is a charming spherical foundation plant that grows barely 2 feet (60 cm) tall. It likes fertile soil, although it will still survive in poor soil.
  • Dwarf Norway Spruce (Picea abies ‘Tompa’) – The ‘Tompa’ spruce cultivar has a conical form and grows to a maximum height of 3 feet (1 m). In a sunny front yard, use as a foundation or entry plant. This plant thrives in Hardiness Zones 4-7.
  • Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’ (Bird’s Nest Norway Spruce) – This foundation plant has an oval form with a flattened top. Its flat top has a minor depression in the center, giving it the look of a bird’s nest. The foliage of the ‘Bird’s Nest’ spruce is thick and light yellowish green. The low-growing conifer reaches a height of 3 to 4 feet (1–1.2 meters). It is hardy to zone 2.
  • Picea abies ‘Little Gem.’ – Little Gem is a well-loved and sought-after dwarf conifer. It’s an excellent focus for a rock garden, being a small evergreen spruce shrub with thick needle-like leaves and a form of a flattened globe.
  • The Dwarf Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca ‘Conica’) – This is a pyramid-shaped foundation conifer. Its attractive appearance and light green leaves make it perfect for landscaping in corners, as entryway plantings, or as an aesthetic complement to other foundation bushes.

Salvia

salvia

Salvia is the most extensive genus of plants in the Lamiaceae family (mint family), with approximately a thousand shrub species, herbaceous perennials, and annuals.

From summer through fall, it erupts with pink, white, or purple flowers and green foliage. ‘Ostfriesland’ is tiny purple salvia that grows 18 inches tall and broad in USDA Hardiness Zones 4–8.

Bayberry (Morella pensylvanica (Mirbel) Kartesz)

Bayberry, or Morella pensylvanica (Mirbel) Kartesz, is a high-density deciduous shrub with a rounded form that reaches six to ten feet tall.

You can easily cultivate Bayberry in bright sunlight to partial shade on ordinary, dry to medium, well-drained soils. This bush prefers moist, sandy, or peaty, acidic soils but will grow in various soils and environments, such as unhealthy soils, wet soils, strong winds, drought, and salty conditions. Northern Bayberry can even resist fire.

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Aquatic Plant Functions and Types

No aquarium, pond, or water garden is complete without the presence of aquatic plants. However, picking the perfect water plants that fit your needs and preferences can be surprisingly tricky– especially for beginners.

There are many different aquatic plants (floating, submerged, emergent plants) to choose from, many of which have their own unique characteristics and habits. In short, there is no “one size fits all” plant species in selecting the best aquatic plants.

To help you get started, this article will cover just about everything you need to know about keeping water plants in your pond or water garden, including their different types, their functions, and how to best use them in your world of water.

What are Aquatic Plants?

white water lily

Photo from @stevenstph (IG)

Aquatic plants thrive in watery environments. Also known as hydrophytes or aquatic macrophytes, these plants vary widely in their ability to adapt to their surroundings. Some are entirely submerged, while others are partially submerged, and some float on the surface.

Most aquatic plants spread their fibrous roots through whatever debris and mud has accumulated at the bottom of their aquatic environment. Some of them can be free-floating on the surface, some are completely submerged and others just poke above the surface. They can be found in all types of aquatic environment and many are used to help us clean even our most polluted waters.

Popular examples of water plants are Anubias, African water fern plants, water purslane, and waterweed plants. Meanwhile, common aquatic flowers include lotus, mosaic flowers, water lilies, and water hawthorn plants.

In most cases, you will only have limited space in your water feature for aquatic plants, so it is very important to choose your plants wisely. Many can grow quite rapidly and will fill up their space quickly. You need to select each plant and its intended purpose carefully, whether to add vibrancy or color, add height, or control algae growth.

Choose a variety of aquatic plants for your water, to add texture and visual appeal, as well as to improve water quality. Most aquatic plants are quite hardy and require very little care from us.

General Characteristics of Aquatic Plants

Aquatic plants are excellently adapted to aquatic environments, including lakes, ponds, estuaries, marine lagoons, swamps, and river banks.

To adapt to their water habitat, these plants have common characteristics, which are listed below:

● Some aquatic plants have floating leaves on the water surface, whereas others emerge entirely above water. Some water plants are also submerged, meaning they grow entirely underwater. Some of these plants are free-floating and some have roots attached to the bottom soil.

● Plant cuticles limit water loss in most ordinary plants. Because aquatic plants live in water and aren’t threatened by water loss, most aquatic plants don’t need them. If they do, they have thin ones. They also have several stomata on either side of their leaves. As they don’t need to retain water, aquatic plants leave their stomata open most of the time.

● Because their stems are typically supported by water pressure, many aquatic plants have a less rigid structure. Their leaves generally appear flat on the surface because they must float. The air sacs in the leaves allow them to float.

● Their roots are typically small to allow water to flow into the leaves freely and are light and feathery because they don’t need to prop up or support the plants.

● Since they thrive in watery environments, their roots are specialized to take in oxygen. In the case of trees like swamp cypress, these water plants possess special roots (pneumatophores) to breathe. These roots stick out of the water surface to reach oxygen. Some aquatic plants, like duckweed, have an air-filled chamber under their leaves, allowing them to float.

● To adapt to swamps and waterlogged habitats, water plants can perform a biochemical process that helps prevent harmful chemicals from accumulating in low oxygen or anaerobic medium conditions.

Over the years, aquatic plants have adapted to cope with the many different water habitats that they grow in. Aquatic plants are the filters of our earths water and will continue to be long after we are gone.

Functions of Aquatic Plants

Apart from serving as an attractive centerpiece in water gardens or ponds, there are a many other functions of aquatic plants such as providing oxygen, food, and shelter to other organisms.

Let’s go into detail as to why water plants are so important:

Ecosystem Benefits

Aquatic plants provide many ecological benefits. For instance, they provide food and habitat for sea animals. Sea grasses are a food source for many commercial and recreational fishes.

This greenery also strengthens soil stability, preventing the erosion of shorelines in all varieties of water bodies. Many water plants are known to stabilize sediments, add oxygen to the surrounding water, and generate organic materials.

Water plants promote the diversity and function of aquatic systems (marine habitats and freshwater habitats). They produce oxygen and consume CO2 during the day, benefitting fishes and helping with filtration and pH stabilization. These plants also prevent unwanted algae growth by removing nitrates and phosphates from the water.

Underwater plants in coastal waters also foster a diversity of marine creatures. They act as a nursery, refuge, or foraging grounds for many sea species.

Water Clarity and Quality

Aquatic plants can improve the clarity and quality of a particular body of water. They also absorb nutrients that would typically cause nuisance algae blooms when left unchecked.

The finely divided leaves of most water plants act as a filtering system, trapping and settling particles from surface runoff, precipitation, and flowing water over land surface directly into streams. Many aquatic plants, such as bulrushes, are also great at absorbing and breaking down polluting chemicals.

To monitor the general health of a body of water or estuary, most professionals would also look into the condition of submerged aquatic vegetation. If the plants thrive and bloom, it is usually interpreted as a good sign.

Food Consumption

Several aquatic micro and macro invertebrates use the submerged sections of aquatic plants as a habitat. Fishes and other wildlife species consume these invertebrates as food, such as amphibians, reptiles, and ducks. The decomposition of aquatic plants by bacteria and fungi also provides food (detritus) for many aquatic animals.

Besides consumption by other underwater species, aquatic plants have also been a popular choice for human consumption. People around the world consume various edible species of algae. Most notably, Eastern Asian countries (Japan and Korea) have consumed macro-algae as a vegetable since ancient times.

One of the most popular algae is dried Porphyra, commonly called Nori (in Japan), Zicai (in China), and Gim (in Korea). This is extensively used to make sushi worldwide.

Other than nutritional benefits, some algae feature antibiotic, anti-inflammatory, and cytotoxic properties. Several water plants have also been pursued in the pharmaceutical industries.

Water Garden and Aquarium Design

Aquatic Plants and flowers also make for a great water garden design. They often become the center of attraction when added to a yard or garden– free-floating greenery could easily accent fountains, backyard, and indoor ponds, or aquariums.

In ponds or fish tanks, water plants give off oxygen, shade and hinder the unwelcomed growth of algae.

Water gardening and aquarium keeping, as a recreational activity, have seen a steady increase in several countries over the past decade. More garden hobbyists have been importing aquatic plants across the world for this reason.

Biomass Feedstock and Biofuel Generation

Recently, there has been growing interest in and many studies regarding using macro-algae to produce biodiesel because of their high oil yield. Many freshwater algae species have already been utilized for biofuel generation. There is also a growing interest in using freshwater plants, such as water hyacinth and giant Salvinia, as biomass sources to generate biofuels.

Other Uses

Aquatic plants (marine and freshwater) have extensive uses worldwide. They are utilized as compost, livestock fodder, fertilizer, and mulch.

Reportedly, several aquatic plants contain as much crude protein, crude fat, and mineral matter similar to conventional forage crops. Many also use aquatic plants as fodder to help improve the harvest. It is one of the best ways to remove nutrients from lakes dealing with artificial enrichment.

Aquatic plants are a vital part of any body of water. They provide food and shelter for other wildlife, improve water quality, and provide economic and aesthetic value to a property.

What are the Types of Aquatic Plants?

Aquatic plants differ significantly in type. These plants fall into four common categories: emergent plants, submerged plants, floating plants with leaves, and free-floating aquatic plants.

Please take note that the classification is primarily based on their root and leaf position.

Emergent Aquatic Plants

cattails in a pond

Photo from @mikebricklphotography (IG)

Emergent aquatic plants usually grow in shallow areas. They are often found along the banks of lakes or ponds. Emergent plants are resilient and can thrive on their own, even in varying water depths and availability.

Emergent water plants are often beneficial as a nutrient buffer since they can block or slow down unwarranted nutrients entering the pond. They can also stabilize shorelines and reduce erosion.

Below are some examples and information about common emergent aquatic plants:

  • Pickerel Rush: It is easy to find this plant in water garden stores selling aquatic plants. The Pickerel Rush has lovely purple flowers, which is excellent in improving the aesthetic of ponds and aquatic gardens. It will also block some runoff nutrients from entering the pond as well as absorb excess nutrients from the pond water.
  • Arrowhead: Arrowhead plants are also known as broadleaf arrowhead, lance-leaved arrowhead, or duck potato. This shallow aquatic weed has leaves that are notably shaped like an arrow. The leaves are mostly found above the water, but sometimes they may also be submerged or floating. It is an excellent aquatic plant to filter nutrients, but you need to monitor the plant to prevent overpopulation.
  • Bog Moss: This water plant commonly frequents wetlands or ponds in the form of creeping mats. It is a small, dark, and branched plant with spiral leaves on its stem. Its small flowers usually have three petals. Like other emergent water plants, it can also block runoff nutrients from entering a body of water.
  • Cattails: Also known as Tullies, Cattails are the most easily recognizable plant in and around bodies of water. Their spikey, sausage-shaped flowers called catkins appear atop their long, slender stems in late summer to early fall. This plant can be partially submerged and can be a vigorous grower with or without permanent standing water. They can grow up to 5 feet tall. Cattails also serve as cover for wildlife and a food source for aquatic rodents like Muskrats.
  • Water Primrose: Also called Pennywort, navelwort; many-flowered Pennywort, this plant has leaves that are round in shape and one inch in diameter. Its leaves are dark green colored and glossy, with scalloped edges. Erect stems happen during the plant’s flowering stage. They commonly bloom between April and September, depends on their species and location. In general, water primroses are considered highly desirable aquatic plants.
  • Maidencane: This is one of the many perennial grasses, and although they are familiar to sight, they can be somewhat hard to tell apart. Maidencane plants can measure up to 8 feet in height, with long, narrowly tapered leaves up to 12 inches long and 1 inch wide. This plant often forms dense colonies.
  • Purple Loosestrife: Commonly known as Lythrum, salicaire, or rainbow weed– the Purple Loosestrife is a herbaceous perennial plant. It measures up to 3 to 6 feet tall or more in width, given numerous erect stems from a woody root mass. Its stems take on a red-purple color and square shape. This plant can be quite invasive in or out of the water.
  • Spike Rush: The term spike rush can refer to any number of different types of spike shaped rushes with a terminal spike that grow in moist soil, marshes, shallow ponds, and wetlands. This plant can span many acres, serving as a cover for other wildlife. Some birds and animals also utilize certain species of Spike Rush as a food source.
  • Water Chestnut: This plant is commonly referred to as bull nut, water nut, or Trappa Natans. The Water chestnut is a rooted aquatic plant with a floating leafy rosette on the surface. Its stems can reach up to 16 feet tall, supporting two leaves. The submerged leaves are feathery and whorled along the stem.

The above listed plants are only a small sample of the many different emergent plants that can be used to beautify and clean out waters. Grouping varieties and using varying heights and textures can really give your pond or water garden a unique and beautiful look.

Be aware that many emergent plants grow quite vigorously and many are considered to be invasive or nuisance species.

Submerged Aquatic Plants

submerged plants in a pond

Photo from @cou_ntrylivingcreations (IG)

Submerged aquatic plants are entirely under the water, with a root system in the bottom sediment. However, minor sections may stick above the surface. These plants require water to support their structure physically.

Not all submerged aquatic plants are desirable. To weed out the undesirable varieties, it’s best to consider your personal preference, ecosystem balance, and the overall visual impact.

Some of the most common submerged water plants are listed below:

  • Common Waterweed: This branching plant has a long, slender stem with thick leaflets arranged in four whorls. The leaves are finely serrated and might be elliptical or linear in shape. It blooms with white flowers and yellow anthers. Like many other aquatic weeds, this plant needs to be kept under control to avoid taking over your water garden or pond.
  • Muskgrass: A form of erect algae, this is an excellent plant for ponds with excessive nutrients as it provides food and shade for fishes. While it may appear like several other aquatic plants, one defining feature would be in breaking its thin straw-like stem. Given this plant is a single-celled stem, the entire stem will turn flaccid once you break it. In comparison, other plants will simply either bend or break.
  • Pondweed: This thin-leaved aquatic plant is native to many areas. It has many benefits, such as being a food source, improving oxygen production, and it can be a refuge for other organisms in your pond or water garden. As a native plant, it is not as invasive as others, but it must still be kept in moderation. Some also confuse pondweed for a floating plant due to its surface leaves.
  • Bladderwort: This aquatic plant can thrive in ponds and environments with limited nutrients. Do note that this is actually a carnivorous plant. While it can initially look like an unorganized mess, the plants eventually form the starfish shape together. They will then shoot up yellow flowers. The Bladderwort can be a problem if it entirely takes over your pond. Given that this plant is not dependent on nutrients, it can spread rather quickly if left unattended.
  • Coontail: A submersed aquatic plant, the Coontail lacks any root structure. Its feathery and fan-shaped leaves are arranged in whorls that resemble the tail of a raccoon. This plant can grow up to 15 inches in height. It may also be found in deep water areas. If you’re planning to control the spread of your coontail, keep in mind that the process can be difficult as it is free-floating.
  • Tape-grass or Wild Celery: The moniker “wild celery” makes this plant sound like a regular celery you typically eat in a salad, but the tape-grass or wild celery only grows under the water. Like other aquatic plants, it also offers many benefits to other underwater species. Unfortunately, growing wild celery in your garden will not be possible. Its leaves appear like long ribbons and can measure up to 6 feet long. It’s also commonly referred to as freshwater eel grass.
  • Slender Water-nymph: This aquatic plant is typically found in clear, soft water lakes and ponds, most often in shallow waters. Notably, it has flexible, thread-like leaves, sheaths that are more or less rectangular, and 1 to 3 flowers in leaf axils. Its flowers are usually single in the axils along the branches and stem.
  • Pipewort: Pipewort is commonly found in shoreline water out to 3-foot depth. Take note that its minuscule size can make it challenging to pick out from among other sedges. Some native species are considered rare or endangered, but this aquatic plant is common within small ranges. Its leaves are linear or sword-shaped, and 2 to 3 flowers make up the flower head in silver, gray, or green colors.
  • Lake Quillwort: These herbaceous, spore-bearing plants have grassy spike-like leaves. Their rosette leaves have swollen bases, and sporangia with microspores and megaspores are found within the leaf bases. Most lake quillworts grow submerged as a rosette of linear leaves in freshwater all year. It is commonly found in soft water ponds, lakes, and slow-moving streams and rivers, in less than 2 feet of water. This plant is completely submerged, but it may be immersed near shorelines or stranded on land when water levels drop.

Some species of submerged aquatic plants are primarily used as ornamentals in outdoor water gardens and aquariums. Aside from aesthetic purposes, these water plants are also utilized as essential ecosystem components.

Floating Leaved Aquatic Plants

lotus in a pond

Photo from @itssarah_wilson (IG)

As the name suggests, floating leaf plants refer to rooted plants with most of their leaves drifting on the surface. A number of these plants have some rigidity; hence they may extend a little above the waterline. They are often rooted in the lake bottom and typically grow in protected areas with little wave action.

Here are some common examples of floating leaved aquatic plants:

  • Watershield: This aquatic plant is a small, football-shaped leaf that lies flat in surface water, such as ponds. Its size is 2-4 inches and has a dark red color underneath with a gelatinous covering. This native aquatic plant can kill off bacteria and algae and is also used as a hiding place for fish, making it one of the perfect habitats for some ponds.
  • American Lotus: The leaves of an American Lotus are almost perfectly round with no cleft. It may look completely flat on the water surface but may raise to 3 feet on a stalk. One of its defining factors is that it often has a yellow flower but may sometimes come in white or pink varieties. This aquatic plant also comes with an extensive root system called rhizomes.
  • Spatterdock: This aquatic plant is also known as “cow lily” and has a large heart or oval-shaped leaves. The floating leaves of the spatterdock are connected to a large stem attached to a spongy rhizome. It can grow to 1 foot long and 10 inches wide. Spatterdock also has a very noticeable half-opened yellow flower on the water surface. This flower is attached to a thick round stem which is about 6 feet long.
  • Fragrant Water Lily: The fragrant water lily is famous for its round-shaped leaves with a cleft extending to the center. Its size can range from 10 to 30 centimeters wide, while its color appears to be glossy green on the surface and red underneath. Another defining characteristic of this aquatic plant is its flower that it usually has broad petals and a pistil at the center packed with a bright yellow stamen. Lilies can come in many different colors and flower styles.
  • Yellow Floating Heart: This aquatic plant is considered a non-native invasive plant that originated from Europe and Asia. It has circular or heart-shaped leaves that are alternately arranged on the stem but opposite of the flower. The yellow floating heart is famous for its bright yellow flower with five petals at the top of the water surface. It also has a lot of flat-shaped seeds per capsule. It grows fast, shading out other native plants and causing damage to the aquatic environment by decreasing the oxygen level in the water and creating a suitable habitat for mosquitoes.
  • Floating Marsh-marigold: Considered a rare aquatic plant, the floating marsh marigold can be found in shallow, slow-moving water such as creeks, streams, sheltered lake margins, swamps, and beaver ponds. This plant usually roots in mud, silt, or clay, before spreading when stems root at the nodes. This distinctive aquatic plant has a resemblance to the larger common marsh marigold, which has yellow flowers. Typically, it has 2 to 6 small white flowers about 1 centimeter across, each with five petals.
  • Small White Water-lily: The small white water lily is another rare aquatic plant. It has up to 15 white petals and approximately 30 to 45 yellow stamens surrounding a saucer-shaped center disk. Its flowers are single-floating on the water’s surface, only closing up at night while opening up a few hours in a day. Expect to see this floating leaved aquatic plant in shallow, protected bays in lakes and slow-moving streams. They are also common in streams impounded by beaver dams.
  • Swamp Smartweed: Aquatic swamp smartweed has oblong leaves that are often flat with a blunt tip. They also have shorter, fatter flower clusters compared to their terrestrial form. Although there are several other smartweeds with pink-colored flower spikes, the Swamp Smartweed has the most shocking pink flowers of the lot. It makes them one of the most easily recognizable water flowers.

Some floating water plants will generally provide enough shade for underwater plants to survive beneath. These plants may serve as excellent fish and wildlife habitats. Take note that a healthy floating-leaved aquatic plant environment may dampen the waves, buffering the shore from the erosive effects of harsh weather conditions like storms and strong winds. Not only that, but they certainly enhance the aesthetic appeal of our ponds and lakes.

Free Floating Aquatic Plants

water hyacinth

Photo from @huichinhsu (IG)

True to their name, free-floating aquatic plants float freely on the water surface. Like many other water plants, they don’t grow their roots in the soil. Instead, the roots hang down into the water– making the rest of the plant buoyant like a raft. As they are suspended on the water, the plant can be moved around the water garden or pond surface by external factors like wind and strong water currents. These floating plants serve as decor to your backyard water property, plus they are also low-maintenance. Many of these plants only need to be thinned once a year to prevent overtaking the entire water system.

  • Mosquito Fern: The mosquito fern is often mistaken as duckweed. Mosquito fern is a free-floating aquatic plant with small leaves arranged opposite the stem. It consists of 2 lobes, the upper lobe floating above the surface and the lower lobe submerged under the water. Its name comes from its ability to fend off mosquitoes from laying eggs in the water. They usually grow on still or slow-moving water such as swamps, ponds, and lakes. Too many colonies of this plant may also decrease the oxygen level in the water for other organisms. Thus, it needs to be controlled before it covers the entire pond.
  • Water Hyacinth: Considered as another invasive free-floating plant, the water hyacinth grows in almost all freshwater environments. Its leaves are broadly round or elliptic and usually measure 15 centimeters with glossy green color. Its striking lavender-blue flower with yellow blotch consists of 6 petals, six stamens and measures around 5 centimeters. The fruit of the water hyacinth is a 3-celled capsule containing at least 50 seeds each. When not controlled, this plant may cause a variety of negative impacts in the freshwater. The dense, impenetrable mats that it can form cause waterways to clog, making water activities such as fishing and boating impossible. It can also blocks the air-water interface which can degrade the water quality.
  • Duckweed: Commonly found in still-moving ponds, lakes, and sloughs, the duckweed is an individual aquatic plant with an oval-shaped leaf only ¼ inch long. This aquatic plant grows fast and abundantly, making it an excellent food source for waterfowl and fish. However, the dense population of duckweed can be a nuisance for humans because they block the waterways. Recently, science and agriculture have made creative uses for the abundant amount of duckweed. They are usually harvested to eliminate pollutants and serve as feed to livestock and fertilizer for other crops. Meanwhile, researchers have tried to synthesize insulin by utilizing genetically modified duckweed.
  • Watermeal: Considered the smallest seed-bearing plant, the watermeal is a tiny elliptical-shaped aquatic plant measuring only 1 millimeter. Individually, it is hard to see them with the naked eye, but easier to see as it colonizes because they form large, green masses on the water surface. Commonly found in stagnant or still-moving water, this rootless plant is usually seen growing with duckweeds and mosquito ferns. Their fast-growing population can deplete the oxygen in the water quickly and may cause fishes and other respiring organisms to die.
  • Floating Crystalwort: This aquatic plant is a very popular aquarium plant in the US. It is commonly found in slow-moving ponds and streams. The submerged portion of the floating crystalwort serves as a suitable habitat for small invertebrates and becomes food for other amphibians and reptiles. The unique characteristic of the floating crystalwort is that its stem and leaves are almost identical. It is considered thick for its size and measures 0.08 inches wide. Despite the lack of function of its thin and colorless roots, they still help the floating crystalwort anchor in the mud.
  • Florida Mudmidget: Floating just beneath the water surface, this aquatic plant grows in rivers, lakes, ponds, and sloughs. This Florida native plant is considered another small duckweed. It has narrow, elongated fronds that connect to form colonies. The size of the fronds is only about 5 to 10 millimeters, with a tiny flower that is hard to see.
  • Giant Salvinia: This floating aquatic fern thrives in slow-moving, nutrient-rich freshwaters. It spreads aggressively and produces a floating canopy on the surface of lakes, rivers, and ponds. Through water currents, it is dispersed long distances within a waterbody or between water bodies with the help of animals and equipment like boats or vehicles. In some cases, the Giant Salvinia is cultivated by aquarium and pond owners and released through flooding or intentional dumping.
  • American Featherfoil: The American featherfoil is usually found in shallow, clear organic waters. It is an aquatic herb that has erect hollow and leafless flower stems. Each one grows a series of large, spongy, and air-filled flowering stalks. The air helps the plant stems buoy up above the water surface. However, it does not float much, given that its stem and roots anchor it firmly into place. It’s challenging to spot this plant in the water. To find it, look in shallow waters of ditches, ponds, and swamps without too much disturbance.
  • Water Cabbage: Also known as water lettuce, Nile cabbage, or shellflower, this free-floating plant has thick, soft leaves that resemble a rosette. It drifts on the water surface, with the roots hanging submersed beneath floating leaves. Notably, the water cabbage is one of the most productive freshwater water plants in the world. Its leaves can measure up to 14 centimeters long without a stem. They are also often utilized in tropical aquariums to serve as cover for fry and small fishes.

If you’re planning to include free-floating water plants into your large pond or an enclosed body of water– the greenery can easily make your man-made feature look more natural. However, some may be invasive, which can be harmful to the ecosystem in the long run. It’s your responsibility to keep all your aquatic plant species in check to strike a balance.

Frequently Asked Questions

What helps aquatic plants to float in water?

There is a particular tissue called Aerenchyma, which allows aquatic plants to float. The parenchyma cells form a network with air cavities that perform a gaseous exchange, making the plant light and buoyant, therefore allowing them to float in water.

Do aquatic plants have cuticles?

Most aquatic plants do not have nor need cuticles. The primary function of cuticles is to prevent water loss from plants. Since aquatic plants live directly in a well-watered environment, they do not need cuticles in any of their parts.

Do aquatic plants oxygenate water?

Yes, aquatic plants oxygenate the water and consume CO2 during the day, which helps the fishes and stabilize the pH level in the water.

What pond plants keep water clear?

Oxygenating pond plants such as Hornwort and Water Thyme are effective clear water plants feeding through their foliage and roots. Floating pond plants like water hyacinth and water lettuce are also good water filter plants because they feed heavily and grow fast. These plants also provide shade in the pond through their size by blocking the sunlight, which helps fight algae growth.

Can you have too many oxygenating aquatic plants in a pond?

Having too many oxygenating aquatic plants in a pond may cause the oxygen and pH levels to fluctuate. Aquatic plants consume oxygen at night, leaving little to no oxygen for other respiring organisms in the pond. For people with fish in their pond, not only does it lessen the oxygen in the water, but too many submerged oxygenated aquatic plants may also leave no room for your fish to swim around.

Final Thoughts

Aquatic plants are one of the best additions to your water garden or pond. Free-floating flowers and lush greenery could undoubtedly accent your fountains and grow right inside the basin.

Not only do they add aesthetic value, but they also help maintain your pond’s ecosystem and provide many benefits to your fish– though you will still need to manage their growth to prevent invasive species from overtaking the waters.

The aquatic plants included in this article are perfect even for a beginner, so here’s to hoping you’ll take what you’ve learned and put it to good use!

How to Grow a Scented Garden

A scented garden is a delight for your mind and soul! Scented gardens contain plants that have either aromatic flowers or leaves. Fragrances produced by plants are typically either to attract or to repel insects and birds. 

Your garden can be a relaxing and restful spot in your yard. It can be even more enjoyable and even soothing when it contains a plethora of pleasantly scented plants. Every plant has a different natural scent. The scent is one of the most often overlooked yet extremely important aspect of any garden.

Scented Garden Flowers:

  • Rose:  The rose is the oldest and possibly the most popular and lovable aromatic plant. There are varieties suitable for most climatic conditions, soil types, and topography. They are available in almost all the colors you could imagine. They are perennial shrubs, which often require consistent pruning to maintain the desired size. They can be grown in pots, containers, or beds.
  • Fragrant Freesias:  These are most popular among European flower lovers due to their wine-like aroma. It is a very hardy, sweet, fresh, and clear fragrance-bearing plant. With its ornamental beauty, Freesia would make your garden doubly attractive. Planted in spring, they bloom almost 90-110 days after planting.
  • Hyacinth:  Hyacinth flowers are available in pink, red, orange, white, blue, and yellow colors, and they can make the whole garden fragrant with their fresh scent. These are spring-flowering annuals; their fragrance acts as a natural birds repellent to protect their underground bulbs. Hyacinth is a stunning addition to both your garden and the bouquet. 
  • Lavender:  This plant is listed among the best-smelling flowers. It is a commonly grown house plant, yet it has a lot of commercial uses, stress-reducing effects, and improves arousal rate. (Motomura, Sakurai, & Yotsuya, 2001). Its hybrid variety, “Lavandin,” is the most fragrant one.
  • Tuberose:  This perennial flowering plant produces white-colored flowers after three months and flowers all year round. Tuberose ranks among the most fragrant flowers in the world. Its’ smell is not sweet, but instead, very powerful and rich.
  • Nemesia:  This is a two-lipped perennial flower or shrub with a strong fragrance. It is available in royal blue, pink, yellow, and orange colors.
  • Jasmine: Common white Jasmine is known for its sweet scent. It blooms at night and remains dominant in the whole garden, and keeps producing flowers. It is one of the most popular scents used in many cosmetics and day-to-day things that we use.
  • Lilac (Syringa vulgaris): The lilac is an extremely common and fragrant (yummy and enticing), deciduous, multi-stemmed, sunlight-loving plant. Its flowering time is late spring, and it produces eye-catchy flowers of purple, lavender, white, and pink. 
  • Mock Orange (Philadelphus virginalis): Mock orange is a droopy, white-colored, fragrant flowering shrub. It blooms in summer and will strike you with its delicious fragrance, which smells almost good enough to eat.
  • Gardenia:  This is a scent-changing flower, i.e., it smells zesty and spicy in the evening while rich and intense at night (to attract pollinators). It prefers somewhat warmer nights, and its leaves are also fragrant. 
  • Mint:  Mint is known as “the Herb of Hospitality,” mint has a refreshing and energizing fragrance. It is an easy to grow and maintain type of herb and requires cool, moist places to grow. 

Scented Trees:

  • Golden Chain Tree: Laburnum wisteria is a source of both ornamental and aromatic attraction. It blooms at the start of spring and keeps blooming for 3-4 weeks.
  • Sweetbay Magnolias:  Magnolias are prized worldwide for their lemony scented flowers. It does not tolerate severe cold and grows into a multi-stemmed plant in cooler climates and a single tall (60 ft.) tree in warmer climates. (Cho, Sowndhararajan, Jung, Jhoo, & Kim, 2015)
  • Cherry Plums:  It is a fragrant shrub but can be pruned and raised into a tall tree. It produces white-colored aromatic flowers in April. The cherry plum prefers full sun to grow and flower properly.
  • Crabapple:  The common crabapple emits Myrcene and Benzaldehyde, which are the substances that produce the unique aroma produced by crabapple. “M. Dolgo, M. Liset, M. Hopa, and M. Makamik” are some of the most fragrant ornamental cultivars of crabapple. In spring (for almost 10-12 days), they produce enchanting, stunning flowers. They are one of the most common trees planted in the US. (Zhao et al., 2014)
  • White Dogwood:  This plant is suitable for small yards, streets, and indoor (specimen plant). It blossoms throughout the year and is available in white, red, and pink cultivars. 

Scented Garden Essentials

The scented garden establishment is not different from ordinary gardens. All the steps like soil preparation, drainage, irrigation, and maintenance are the same except the time of planting and the positioning of plants.

Time of Sowing/Planting:

  • Self-Sow vigorous annuals: petunia, calendula, etc., are direct seeded in the beds, and they will grow successfully when the conditions are favorable. 
  • Hardy annuals: are sown at the start of spring or mid of fall, and seedlings should be protected from extremely hot weather and frost. Examples are Baby’s breath (Gypsophila elegans), pink dianthus, sweet peas, etc.
  • Tender annuals: like cosmos, amaranths, zinnias, etc., are sensitive to frost, can be sown 4 to 6 weeks after the last spring frost is past.

Positioning:

  • Container Grown Annuals are best as you can keep them in living rooms, study rooms, front of doors, etc.
  • When grown in garden soil, try to sow in the protection of shrubs or trees to allow the scents to collect and inspire.

Soil Type:

Medium fertile soil is better for the scented plants. The soil texture may be sandy, clayey, or silty. The thing is to add a sufficient quantity of compost or other organic mulches to make it favorable for the growth of plants. The majority of the scented plants are perennials, so it is better to prepare the soil well from the start.

Scented Garden Benefits:

Mental peace: “Happiness radiates like the fragrance from a flower and draws all good things towards you.” The sense of smell provides several ways of delight and memories that stay with you forever. (Marcus & Barnes, 1999)

Healing Power:

  • Mint increases concentration improves memory, and intensifies athletic performance.
  • Lavender induces sleep and relaxes the mind.
  • Lemon increases cognitive/psychological performance.
  • Pine decreases anxiety.
  • Cinnamon improves memory, visual-motor reaction speed and ameliorates attention. (Balasubramanian, Roselin, Singh, Zachariah, & Saxena, 2016)
  • Jasmine relaxes the mind and uplifts the mood.
  • Vanilla elevates joy and peace of mind.
  • Citrus aroma decreases depression symptoms, and it is mind relaxing. (Spring, 2016) 

Essential Oils Extraction:

  • The plants’ flowers or leaves can be used to make the extracted oils
  • These oils have medicinal, cosmetic, and culinary uses.
  • Essential oils and herbal products can be made from almost any scented plant.
  • They can be inexpensive, sustainable, easy to cultivate, and a potential income source.
  • One drop of peppermint oil might be equal to the twenty-six cups of pm tea!
  • It is advisable not to use any such oils or extracts internally without a health practitioner’s recommendation.

Give a Gift of Scented Blooms:

  • “Flowers always make people better, happier, and more helpful; they are sunshine, food, and medicine for the soul.” 
  • The best way to show warmth for your loved ones is to give them a gift of natural fragrances that you grow on your own in your scented garden. 
  • Fragrant Hyacinth, Rose, Peony, Sweet Pea, Lily, Freesia, Baby’s Breath, or the combination of two or more than two would make a bouquet of love, care, and enjoyment.

References:

Ali, A., Murphy, C. C., Demirci, B., Wedge, D. E., Sampson, B. J., Khan, I. A., . . . Tabanca, N. (2013). Insecticidal and biting deterrent activity of rose‐scented geranium (Pelargonium spp.) essential oils and individual compounds against Stephanitis pyrioides and Aedes aegypti. Pest management science, 69(12), 1385-1392. 

Balasubramanian, S., Roselin, P., Singh, K., Zachariah, J., & Saxena, S. (2016). Postharvest processing and benefits of black pepper, coriander, cinnamon, fenugreek, and turmeric spices. Critical reviews in food science and nutrition, 56(10), 1585-1607. 

Cho, H., Sowndhararajan, K., Jung, J.-W., Jhoo, J.-W., & Kim, S. (2015). Fragrant chemicals in the supercritical carbon dioxide extract of Magnolia Kobus DC. Flower buds increase the concentration state of brain function. Journal of Essential Oil Bearing Plants, 18(5), 1059-1069. 

Marcus, C. C., & Barnes, M. (1999). Healing gardens: Therapeutic benefits and design recommendations (Vol. 4): John Wiley & Sons.

Motomura, N., Sakurai, A., & Yotsuya, Y. (2001). Reduction of mental stress with lavender odorant. Perceptual and motor skills, 93(3), 713-718. 

Spring, J. A. (2016). Design of evidence-based gardens and garden therapy for neurodisability in Scandinavia: data from 14 sites. Neurodegenerative disease management, 6(2), 87-98. 

Zhao, J., Wang, R., Huang, C.-x., Mao, Z.-q., Guo, L., & Shen, X. (2014). Taxonomic analysis of volatiles emitted by ornamental crabapple flowers. Acta Ecologica Sinica, 34(4), 213-218. 

Organic Gardening Practices

Organic gardening or organic horticulture is the practice and science of growing ornamental plants, vegetables, and fruits utilizing only natural resources from seeding to harvesting. The practice specifically prohibits the use of any synthetic chemicals, including fertilizers, pesticides, and plant growth regulators. Rather than resort to harmful chemicals and unnatural treatments, the soils and the plants are maintained naturally and organically from start to finish.

Organic Soil Preparation

Organic Compost

Compost is the partially decomposed product of any kind of organic waste, either animal or plant waste. Compost is the way of the world. Without our interference, composting is the process that all organic materials will go through. It improves soil fertility, increases microbial populations, does no harm to the atmosphere, and is a significant contributor to waste volume reduction.  Compost of farm yard manure and vermicompost (decomposition using worms) are the two most commonly used compost products in the US during soil preparation.

Biofertilizers

Biofertilizers contain living microorganisms that enhance soil microbial population and are efficient in nitrogen fixation and mineralization of phosphorus and potassium. Microbial activity improves soil aeration, it’s water holding capacity, and has been found to increase crop yields by 20%-30%. In organic gardening, you can add biofertilizers instead of resorting to the use of chemical fertilizers and insecticides because biofertilizer also controls insect pests. (Blidariu & Grozea, 2011)

No-Dig Gardening

This is a permaculture approach in which the soil is not cultivated and instead is amended using decomposing organic matter. No-dig gardening operates on the principle of nature, i.e., “Nature is in perfect balance when left alone.” Charles Dowding has practiced No-dig gardening since 1928 in the UK. He has done a lot of work in the field of organic gardening and especially no-dig gardening. He used to add compost as a mulch to grow salad crops (in his market gardens) and those that grow well in undisturbed soils. {Deans, 2001 #394}

Mulching

Mulching is the practice of covering the soil surface with an organic material layer. The material may be fully or partially decomposed. Organic mulch material varies from grass clippings, decomposed leaves, bark chips, wheat or rice straw, compost, peat moss, vermicompost, or cardboard and paper.

Advantages of Mulching:

  • In temperate regions, if mulch is applied in winter, it delays the spring growth in perennial plants, protecting them from spring frosts.
  • It serves to warm the soil, creating optimum conditions for germination.
  • It helps in soil water conservation by suppressing the evaporation process. 
  • It is helpful in suppressing weed growth.
  • It slowly decomposes, adding nutrients to the soil.
  • It helps prevent erosion.

Organic Maintenance Practices

Easy Home-made Remedies for Home Owners

Aphid Control:

Almost every garden plant (ranging from pumpkins, squashes, cucumber, beans, potatoes, etc.) is susceptible to aphid attack. Their nymphs and adults both suck sap from the underside of leaves, develop sooty fungus, hinder photosynthesis, and sometimes transmit viruses in the plants. (Rondon & Horneck, 2006)

Control: Spray (on large trees) or rub (on small plant’s leaves) 1% liquid soap solution. Another method is to prepare an insecticidal solution by mixing one teaspoon of vegetable oil and liquid soap in 2 cups of water to rub on the leaves. 

Snails and Slugs:

Snails and slugs are chewing-type pests that love to eat leafy vegetables, young seedlings, and ornamental and low-growing plants of all types. They attack both the roots and above-ground parts of plants. Damp conditions are their favorite. 

Control: place shallow containers of beer throughout the garden and change the liquid after every three days as it becomes unattractive for the pests. If your garden is small enough, you can simply control them manually by plucking them from the plants. Otherwise, use a 1% or 2% caffeine solution to discourage snails and slugs. (Hollingsworth, Armstrong, & Campbell, 2003)

Weed Control Techniques:

Weeds are unwanted plants that grow tend to grow freely in our gardens, often overtaking the more desireable plants. It is essential to control excessive weed growth if you want your actual crop to grow properly. There are several non-chemical ways to control weeds.

  • Soil Steam Sterilization: cover the soil with a plastic sheet and let it remain as it is for a week or more. The heat produced in the soil will kill the weeds.
  • Manual removal: hoeing, weeding and plowing are age old practices for controlling garden weeds. An added advantage to actual manual weed removal is the relaxing effect of spending time in your garden. It also gives us time to check on our plants for any disease or pest attacks and make compost of the weed plants.
  • Crop Rotation: crop rotation is not usually such an issue with small garden owners, but rotating the location of our crops will allow the different plants to use the soils most effectively and let the soil recover. 
  • Biological control: weed seed predators, bio-herbicides, and grazing animals are all biological control agents. Many of us have been conditioned to reach for chemical treatments first, rather than using the time tested, cost effective and earth friendly biological controls. 

Intercropping:

Intercropping is the practice of growing two or more crops in the same place at the same time. The aim is to maximize the utilization of all the available space and resources (mainly water). Careful planning is, however, essential to get the potential benefits of intercropping. Below are examples.

  • Mutualism: is a practice of give and take. For example, Multi-Tier Cropping Systems in which three tiers or levels are made. The upper tier is coconut, the middle one is banana, and the lowest is pineapple, leguminous crops, or seasonal vegetables. Mutualism promotes biodiversity.
  • Pest Management: The use of multiple crops on the same piece of land can be an efficient method of pest control. Both trap crops (the crops that attract pests and save the actual crop from the attack), push-pull cropping (one crop attracts the pests and others repel them to keep a balance in population) are techniques that can be easily adopted in small and large scale farming.
  • Recourse Partitioning: means that the crops competing with each other for water, sunlight, and space would not be grown together. For example, short crops in the shade of tall crops and shallow roots in between deep-rooted crops.

Types of Organic Gardens

Square Foot Gardening:

In SFG, we divide the growing area into Small Squares of usually 30cm and grow as many plants as the square can carry, thus leaving no space for weeds.

  • The advantage of square foot gardening is the maximum utilization of available space, not allowing the weeds to grow or even germinate—a new gardening method in urban areas where space is the major issue.
  • Intensive planting creates a living mulch. In small spaces, it is easy to cover the squares or fence them to protect them from insects, frost, etc. 
  • This smart planting technique eliminates the need for fertilizers as compost can be added every time you re-plant.
  • Companion planting, i.e., planting an insect repellent with the actual crop, is possible in square plantings. You can easily plant a variety of crops in a small quantity for kitchen usage. {Bartholomew, 2013 #396}

Aquaponics:

It combines aquaculture (raising fish in small ponds) with hydroponics (growing food crops such as lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, etc., in water) to produce food. The nutrient-rich aquaculture water is fed to plants in hydroponics, eliminating the need for fertilizers, saving water, and producing no waste. Aquaponics is considered a sustainable source of food production and can be established both as an indoor and outdoor system. (Blidariu & Grozea, 2011)

Xeriscaping:

Xeriscaping is a water-efficient gardening type that reduces or eliminates the need for irrigation. Drought tolerant plants such as cacti and succulents are usually planted in xeriscaping. The aim behind xeriscaping is water conservation by replacing the grassy lawns and high water utilizing plants with drought-tolerant native species, rocks, mulch, and soil. 

Tips for Beginning Organic Gardeners

  • Pick a sunny location: Most vegetables you plant will need full sun, i.e., 8 hours of bright light daily. So it is vital t to select a sunny site when you have decided to start an organic garden.
  • Start small: Most of the time, people start too big and have nothing but developed more problems and chores. So it is advisable to start from 100 feet or 50 sq. ft. It would be enough for a family of 5-6 persons. 
  • Plan ahead: Preparing your garden the season prior to planting using all organic compost is a great way to ensure an easy start in spring.
  • Plant selection: The selection of native plant species is very important to minimize the maintenance requirements, improve biodiversity, and help native plants. 
  • Don’t lose hope and have patience: Mother nature takes time to work, take your time and you and our world will reap the benefits.

References:

Blidariu, F., & Grozea, A. (2011). Increasing the economical efficiency and sustainability of indoor fish farming by means of aquaponics-review. Scientific Papers Animal Science and Biotechnologies, 44(2), 1-8.

Diaz, L. F., De Bertoldi, M., & Bidlingmaier, W. (2011). Compost Science and technology: Elsevier.

Hollingsworth, R. G., Armstrong, J. W., & Campbell, E. (2003). Caffeine as a novel toxicant for slugs and snails. Annals of Applied Biology, 142(1), 91-97.

Lanza, P. (1998). Lasagna Gardening: A New Layering System for Bountiful Gardens: No Digging, No Tilling, No Weeding, No Kidding! : Rodale.

Rondon, S. I., & Horneck, D. A. (2006). Using home remedies to control garden pests.

Tonitto, C., David, M. B., & Drinkwater, L. E. (2006). Replacing bare fallows with cover crops in fertilizer-intensive cropping systems: A meta-analysis of crop yield and N dynamics. Agriculture, Ecosystems & Environment112(1), 58-72.

Deans, E. (2001). No-dig Gardening; Leaves of Life. HarperCollins.

Ascard, J., Hatcher, P. E., Melander, B., Upadhyaya, M. K., & Blackshaw, R. E. (2007). 10 Thermal weed control. Non-chemical weed management: principles, concepts and technology, 155-175.

Bartholomew, M. (2013). All new square foot gardening: The revolutionary way to grow more in less space (Vol. 4). Cool Springs Press.

McKenney, C., & Terry, R. (1995). The effectiveness of using workshops to change audience perception of and attitudes about xeriscaping. HortTechnology5(4), 327-329.

No Dig or No Till Gardening

The basic premise behind no-dig or no-till gardening is to garden in such a way as to not disrupt the life in the soil as it is the natural food source for the plants. This method works hand in hand with and uses many techniques used in lasagna gardening and organic gardening.

How Does it Work?

  • There are millions of microorganisms inhabiting the A Horizon of soil. The A Horizon is the topsoil layer that provides the habitat for the growth of microorganisms and plant roots. Tillage, plowing and digging exposes these microorganisms to the sunlight and results in those beneficial microbes’ death. (Dowding & Holden, 2013)
  • No-Digging means exactly that. You do not dig and disrupt the soil. You instead depend on the microorganisms to keep your soil well-aerated (they create microscopic tunnels/paths for the movement of nutrients plus water). Their respiration activity also adds oxygen to the soil layers.
  • No plowing and other cultivation operations are necessary. Whatever your garden soil structure may be, organic mulching will make it suitable for planting without the need for cultivation. Rather than cultivate, you use the regular application of compost to enrich your soil.
  • Cardboard and or newspaper can be layered to suppress weed growth, conserve soil moisture, and steadily add essential micro and macro-nutrients into the soil. Organic mulch also improves soil aeration.
  • No-Dig gardening can successfully support all kinds of vegetables, annual or perennial flowering plants, and shrubs. The secret is to add compost each year during the months of Jan-Feb to avoid needing to use harmful synthetic chemicals to control weeds and fertilize.

How to Get Started with No-Dig Gardening?

Site Selection

The most important thing to be considered after you have decided to do no-dig gardening is the appropriate site selection. Choosing a well suited location in your yard can be a great starting point.

Some important things to consider when choosing your site:

  • Consider the history of your site: If you know the site, you might know it’s history. Find a spot that has a long history of plant growth with very little human disturbance and you will be well on your way to a good start. You don’t want a spot that has been compacted by vehicles or equipment.
  • Consider the sun exposure: Note the amount of sun that your site receives during the day. Full sun is great for vegetables, but shrubs and perennials may prefer a bit of shade.
  • Take a soil test: An accurate soil test will give you a good idea of what sort of plants your garden will support and what types of organic matter you might want to add to support those plants. Choosing a spot that is nutrient rich will make your first few years of gardening much easier. Also, the acidity and alkalinity level of soil decides the nutrient uptake and absorption rate by the plant roots.

Decide What to Grow

You can grow any type of plant or crop that you desire in your no-till garden, but most people consider this type of gardening ideally suited for vegetables or annual flowers. We usually think about using no-dig gardening for these type of plants because historically, we would till up our gardens every spring before planting them. All of these no-till techniques can also be used for perennial or shrub gardens.

Decide what type of compost you will use

Organic compost can be made from almost any available organic material that you may have around the house. This collected organic material can be layered on the garden in fall (the lasagna method) or it can be mixed and composted all year-round to create heaps of compost that can be spread on the garden. If you live out in the country, you may be lucky enough to have animal waste readily available, but if not, you still have plenty of options.

  • Plant waste such as leaves and stems of dead plants
  • Kitchen, and home waste such as paper, leftover food, cuttings, etc.
  • Field waste such as wheat, rice and barley straw, etc.
  • Wood scraps such as sawdust and wood chips.

Preparing your compost

If you choose the lasagna method, it is fairly easy. You simply apply layers of paper, cardbord or wood waste intersprersed with layers of organic materials and let it decompose on it’s own. Leave it on the garden over the winter months and then plant into it in spring.

If you choose to create a compost pile, collecting and preparing compost is not a one day project, it is more like an every day project. Once you start thinking like a composter, you will find more and more organic matter that can be used in your garden.

You will need an area to collect the everyday things that will be used in your compost. Many people might use a box or container to hold their compost. It needs to be big enough to hold a good amount and it needs to be in an area that is easy to wrok. The compost will need to be turned to create the nice organic material that you want for your garden.

It’s best to chop the material before dumping it into your compost area to help speed up the compost process.

Once you experience how easy it is to make compost on your own, you will never have enough. You may want to keep two to three piles or boxes filled all year round.

The Lasagna Method – broken down

While the below list names specifics, feel free to use whatever organics you have available. The important thing is getting new and healthy nutrients into the ground in a natural manner.

  • Lay down a layer of newspaper, cardboard or wood chips that will act as a natural weed growth suppressor/ground cover and completely decompose within 5-6 weeks.
  • Above the cardboard paper layer, the second layer will be leaf litter, wheat straw, rice straw or grass clippings. This layer acts as a water-absorbent, and can be several inches thick.
  • The next layer should be several inches of well rotten (aged) farmyard manure, kitchen waste or any other easily decomposed and soft material. This will be the layer that would directly support the plant root growth.
  • The subsequent layers of field waste, stem and branches can be added if you want to raise the bed’s height in your Lasagna Garden.
  • Give your lasagna at least 3-4 months to decompose and then plant right into it.
  • Do this year after year and your soil will become very rich and soft over time.

No-Dig Gardening Benefits

  • Water conservation: Water availability should be a major concern for every gardener. “Save as much as you can” is the strategy behind no-dig farming/gardening. Organic mulching and no-tillage (not disrupting soil to expose it to the sun that will cause moisture evaporation) conserve soil moisture more efficiently and hold irrigation water more precisely.
  • Improved soil fertility: Anything that can be done to avoid using harmful synthetic herbicides and fertilizers in our soil will benefit the earth. By using the above listed methods, you can have completely healthy and happy soild without using any harmful products whatsoever. Organic mulching improves not only the organic matter content of the soil but also assists microorganism’s growth. The slow-release of nutrients is a beneficial process for the plants to utilize both mobile and immobile nutrients (in well-plowed soils, these nutrients are moved either to the surface or below the root zone, making them unavailable for the plants).
  • Biodiversity conservation: Not disturbing the natural habitat of beneficial insects, birds, and plants, by avoiding herbicides, insecticides, fertilizers, and other synthetic chemicals will eventually lead to biodiversity safeguarding.
  • Environmental pollution reduction: Instead of wasting the home, kitchen, field, animal industry, food processing industries, and plant leftovers, using them in food production and soil fertility conservation will reduce environmental pollution. In this age where we face the problem of food and water shortage, it is best not to waste even a single thing that could be beneficial for the soil and eventually to nature conservation. (Kingsley, Townsend, & Henderson‐Wilson, 2009)
  • Shifting back toward nature: Historically families grew their own food. Nowadays, we get our food from factories and stores. The more natural we can make the process, the better it is for our earth. Lasagna Garden establishment is a non-Mechanized Garden establishment process where you do need any machine from soil preparation to crop harvest. (Raymond, Diduck, Buijs, Boerchers, & Moquin, 2019)

References:

Dowding, C., & Holden, P. (2013). Organic gardening: the natural no-dig way: Green Books.

Kingsley, J. Y., Townsend, M., & Henderson‐Wilson, C. (2009). Cultivating health and wellbeing: members’ perceptions of the health benefits of a Port Melbourne community garden. Leisure studies, 28(2), 207-219.

Lanza, P. (1998). Lasagna Gardening: A New Layering System for Bountiful Gardens: No Digging, No Tilling, No Weeding, No Kidding! : Rodale.

Raymond, C. M., Diduck, A. P., Buijs, A., Boerchers, M., & Moquin, R. (2019). Exploring the co-benefits (and costs) of home gardening for biodiversity conservation. Local Environment, 24(3), 258-273.